(navigation image)
Home American Libraries | Canadian Libraries | Universal Library | Community Texts | Project Gutenberg | Biodiversity Heritage Library | Children's Library | Additional Collections
Search: Advanced Search
Anonymous User (login or join us)
Upload
See other formats

Full text of "Design by the yard; textile printing from 800 to 1956"

INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI_NVINOSHilWS S3 I a Vy a n_LI BRAR I ES SMITHS0N1AN_INSTITIJ 




S3iyvMan libraries Smithsonian institution NoiiniiiSNi nvinoshiiws S3iyv 




S3iyvaan libraries Smithsonian institution NoiiniiJ-SNi nvinoshiiws saiav 

l"'lNSTITUTION^NOIinillSNl"'NVINOSHiIWS S3 I MVy 8 ll'^LI B RAR I ES SMITHSONIAN INSTITI 
r- Z r- > Z r- z J_ ^__ 

rs3 1 yvy an "LIBRARIES Smithsonian institution NoiiniiiSNi nvinoshiiws S3IMV 






'5/ o 
^INSTITUTION N0IiniliSNI_NVIN0SHilWS"S3 I H VM 8 IT^^LI B RAR I ES SMITHSONIANJNSTITl 

rS3iyvyan"LIBRARIES SMITHSONIAN^INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI NVINOSHIIWS S3iav 



^"institution NOIiniliSNI NviNOSHiiws S3iyvaan libraries Smithsonian instit 

9'^S3iyvaan^LIBRARIEs'^SMITHS0NlAN INSTITUTION NOIifliliSNI NVINOSHilWs'^Sa ia\i 






IVA5>!> 






W 



MITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI NVINOSHilWS S3ldVyan LI B R AR I ES SMITHSONI; 

Z > </> Z M Z ••, ^ ^ 




IVINOSHilWs'^S3iaVaan2LIBRARIES"'SMITHSONlAN2lNSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI_NVINOSHill 



JMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI NVINOSHilWS S3IMVHan LIBRARIES SMITHSONI 





jviNOSHiiws S3iavaan libraries Smithsonian institution NoiifiiiiSNi nvinoshii 




MITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIifliliSNI NVIN0SHilWS"'S3 I ava a n~LI B RAR I ES SMITHSONI 

< |pc 351 r; iJt ^11 < V 




JVIN0SHilWS^S3iavaan~'LIBRARIES^SMITHS0NIAN"'lNSTITUTI0N NOIiniliSNI^NVINOSHil 

■ — w ^ M := "' 

JMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI NVINOSHilWS S3iavaan LI B RAR I ES SMITHSONI 

^^ Q 





X 
<n ■■■- ^ tn ' — Z CO "^ -«^ 

wiNOSHiiws S3iavaan libraries Smithsonian institution NoiiniiiSNi_NviNOSHii 





_l Z _l 2 -• ^ 

SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI NVINOSHilWS SSiavaail LIBRARIES SMITHSON 








NVINOSHilWS S3iavaan libraries Smithsonian institution NoiiniiisNi nvinoshi 

2 .... W 2 v^- t'' Z 



<^^^x E 



. ^ ^-^ /Si«w*t 






DESIGN 

BY THE YARD 

TEXTILE PRINTING FROM 800 TO 1956 



THE COOPER UNION MUSEUM 

FOR THE ARTS OF DECORATION 

NEW YORK 



ACKNOWLEDGMENT 



In assembling material for the exhibition, the Museum has received 
most helpful suggestions and information from the following, to 
whom are given most grateful thanks: 



Norman Berkowitz 

Miss Irene Blunt 

Miss Pamela M. Burden 

Miss Virginia Burdick 

The Celanese Corporation of 

America 

Mrs. Francis Clarke 

Miss Peggy Cook 

Miss Sue Eastman 

Robert Evans 

Miss Dorothy Jean Fuhrer 

Mrs. Mary Davis Gillies 

Miss Ruth Hammer 

Jerry Hannoch 

Douglas Hardy 

Mrs. Margaret Ingersoll 

Raymond W. Jacoby 



John A. Jones, Jr. 

Wilfred Kramer 

Just Lunning 

Stanford S. Marlowe 

Jean-Louis de Maigret 

Jose Martin 

Clyde Murray 

Mrs. Robert M. Pettit 

Warren M. Robbins 

William C. Segal 

Mr. and Mrs. Seymour Slive 

Harvey Smith 

Joseph Stein 

Mrs. Dorothy Waddington 

Clarence A. Weiller 

Don Wight 



The installation of this exhibition has been designed for the Museum 
by Tom Lee, Ltd. 

The design on the cover is after a block-printed Indian textile of the 
14th-15th century. No. 69 in the catalogue. 



Copyright 1956 by the Cooper Union Museum for the Arts of Decoration 



INTRODUCTION 



X HE NAME that the Museum has given to its present exhibition is intended 
to reflect alike the miracle produced by intelligent collaboration between 
artists and technicians, and the undiscerning, sometimes even undiscriminat- 
ing, response to the miracle. In this, as in so many other fields, one is 
reminded of the country-woman who was vaguely annoyed at all the new 
bustle and stir brought by wartime needs to her remote and isolated region: 
"Why does the Government have to build a factory to make TNT? Why 
don't they just go somewhere and buy it?" 

We all just go and buy our printed yard-goods; and many of us let the 
matter rest tliere. Aside from a perfectly human feeling that we need not 
trouble ourselves over ways and means as long as we succeed in satisfying 
our immediate requirements, there are of course many deterrents to a more 
detailed examination of the subject. The chemistry of dyestuffs, the varied 
nature of fibres and woven fabrics, the complexities of machinery, and other 
technical considerations, may lie outside the limits of our knowledge; and 
the labyrinthine realms of designing, styling, merchandising and promotion 
present further mystifications. 

But the miracle confronts us steadily. Although it dazzles us with its 
brilliance, it is no mirage; an admired part of our daily life, it is also the 
mirror of our dreams. The material brought together for this exhibition 
provides a selection of the almost endless quantity of textiles currently pro- 
duced by a variety of means; it permits a survey of contemporary and past 
methods of production; and it shows something of the varied approaches 
that have been made to the problems of design and manufacture, in earlier 
centuries no less than in our own day. 

In such a vast segment of what is after all one of the largest of the world's 
enterprises — the production of textile fabrics — the approaches are indeed 
many and varied. The aim is simple enough: to relieve the monotony of 
surfaces unadorned. But in how many ways can this be accomplished! From 
the considered abstraction of essential forms to the most literal rendering of 
historic events; the poetic, the naturalistic, the imaginative, the didactic; 
even, in the Chinese student's "cribbing" handkerchief printed with Con- 
fucian texts, the mnemonic — anything, it appears, can be printed on textiles, 
and everything has been. 

3 



The variety in types of design is equalled by the variety in methods of 
production; from the simple application of colors directly to the fabric, 
through all the combinations and variations of resist printing, mordant 
printing, and discharge printing, the printer has a further range of choices 
given to him by the differing properties of fibres, natural and man-made. 
A third, and still richer, series of variable factors is presented by the diversity 
of purposes served by printed fabrics. We may recognize the two main cate- 
gories, of apparel fabrics and decorative fabrics, only to become immediately 
aware of an infinity of specialized branches, each calling for suitable qualities 
of design and appropriate methods of execution. 

In the long history of textile printing there have been periods of harmony 
between theme and execution, and an equal number of moments of dis- 
harmony. In earlier centuries no less than in our own time are to be found 
supremely successful fabrics, gratifying to the beholder equally in the char- 
acter and scale of their ornamentation, the quality of their coloring, and the 
suitability of these elements to the means chosen for their execution. As an 
example may be cited the fourteenth-century Indian fragment in the Mu- 
seum's collection that has furnished a decorative motif for the cover of this 
Catalogue; the broad treatment of pattern suitable to printing from a block 
has been no bar to grace and delicacy, and the design itself gives pleasure in 
its timeless simplicity. At the other end of the scale may be placed the 
"toiles de Jouy," and similar cotton fabrics printed in the later eighteenth 
century, in which the rigidities of reproductive copperplate-engraving all but 
stifle the design which initially had been drawn so delightfully by the artist. 

The same gamut is run in the prints of the present moment; and as the 
repertory of techniques today is richly varied, so is the range of choices 
infinitely richer than it has ever been. We produce our failures each season, 
as is attested by the number of "factory outlet" shops on the side streets; and 
we produce our brilliant successes. But always — this year, last century, or a 
thousand years ago — success is dependent upon an understanding of the 
elements involved and a respect for the procedures by which ideas are 
materialized. The incomprehension of a Renaissance craftsman, who saw 
in textile printing nothing more than a process for cheaply copying a cut 
velvet, is matched in our own day by a converter who extracts familiar ele- 
ments from contemporary easel-paintings and stamps them on endless lengths 
of cloth; in both cases, an opportunity has been lost, down in the depths 
where copying is substituted for original creation. 

It is precisely this harmony, this compatibility between ends and means, 
that the present assemblage of material is desired to illustrate. Special exhibi- 
tions always represent a form of wish-fulfillment on the part of the organizing 
museum, enabling it to marshall a quantity of selected material in a manner 



not ordinarily possible; and the present display is no exception. Based on 
the not inconsiderable holdings of the Cooper Union Museum, which for 
the occasion have been supplemented by the generous loans of many friendly 
individuals and museums, this exhibit endeavors to trace the history of textile 
printing through more than a millennium; and in so doing, to permit the 
viewer to form his own conclusions about the nature of the art here 
displayed. 

One sees similar techniques used in periods widely separated in time, and 
one sees them temporarily abandoned in favor of other, and in some cases 
inferior, methods of production. Again, one sees great variation in the 
subject-matter of textile ornamentation, and in the approach to problems 
of design. Sometimes the printer is satisfied in the arbitrary, unsympathetic 
and almost brutal imposition of decoration unsuited alike in scale, colora- 
tion, and quality of pigment to the woven fabric that he would adorn. More 
often, however, agreeable and harmonious prints are produced; and although 
only a minute fraction of the textiles of earlier centuries has survived to our 
day, it may safely be said that the best work of our contemporaries is superior 
to that of our ancestors. 

As has been noted above, a far wider range of techniques and materials 
is available for today's production; but this (as the earlier nineteenth century 
discovered in its own case!) is not the determining factor in the superiority 
of today's design. The "miracle," as it has been designated, has been wrought 
by more subtle means; we now rejoice not only in mastery of material 
resources but in a growing power of design analysis that permits us to adjust 
to the statement we would make the manner in which we make it. The 
sensitive eye is now quick to detect affinities between qualities of color and 
qualities of weave; with equal awareness we recognize the inherent suit- 
ability of linear ornament, or of color areas, to one or another kind of fabric 
destined to serve this purpose or that. There is, in short, an essential prop- 
erty or characteristic of textile printing quite distinct from any other method 
of textile ornamentation; and today at last this distinction is more generally 
observed by the designers and producers of printed textiles. 

It would be interesting to speculate upon the reasons for this improvement. 
They are assuredly numerous, and many would be difficult to establish 
beyond controversy. It seems clear, however, that in all this development a 
great part has been played by the extension of horizons that has characterized 
our century. We have pushed our way, in numbers, into corners of the 
globe seen by but a few of our ancestors; we have been interested in learning 
what makes the wheels turn; we have brought home with us heads full of 
new ideas and trunks full of mementoes to serve our further study. We have 
also come to realize that some of the more solid pleasures of a round-the- 

5 



world cruise are to be had right at home, in the museums that are per- 
manently engaged in the business of widening horizons and of providing 
material to explain what man does and has done well. 

Along with many others, the Cooper Union Museum for nearly sixty years 
has played its part, in maintaining and steadily developing its design resources 
and its means of making them available to all who find them useful. It has 
seemed to the Museum particularly appropriate that this, the largest exhibi- 
tion it has organized, should be devoted to an art so well represented in its 
collections and so well developed in our own day. The exhibition is offered 
to its visitors as evidence of the Museum's unfailing desire to serve designers 
and producers, and it is offered in deep gratitude to all those whose generous 
collaboration and support have made the exhibition possible. 

Calvin S. Hathaway 



CATALOGUE 

DEFINITION OF TERMS 

Fragment — The surviving portion of a textile fabric of less than full width, in many cases impaired, 

and likely to bear an incomplete part of the original design. 

Piece — Larger than a fragment, in good condition, and bearing at least one design repeat. 

Length — A full woven width, with more than one design repeat; dimensions are noted in the 

catalogue only when the fabric has survived in its original width. 

(The numbers set in parentheses after the descriptions of the objects refer to the owners 
of the objects, as shown in the list of Contributors to the Exhibition on page 24. 
An asterisk (*) indicates that the object is illustrated.) 



TECHNICAL MATERIAL 

1. Three Slendang illustrating steps in the 
tie-dye process, tied, partially untied, com- 
pletely untied, polychrome; silk, tie 
threads of vegetable fibre; Indonesia, Lom- 
bok; 20th century (8) 

2. Fifteen Pieces illustrating steps in the 
batik process; polychrome design of but- 
terfly and leaves; cotton, with wax, oils 
and dyes; Java; about 1890 (46) 

3. Tjanting, copper pipe used for applying 
wax on a hand-drawn batik; Indonesia; 
20th century (57) 

*4. Three Tjap stamps, copper blocks used 
to apply wax on a printed batik; Java; 
19th century (44) 

5. Six Woodblocks; used for printing tex- 
tiles, motifs and elements of a design; 
India; 19th century (46) 

6. Block, used for printing textiles, conven- 
tionalized lily and lozenge repeat; hard- 
wood and brass; France; 1700-1725 (38) 

7. Block, used for printing textiles, conven- 
tionalized floral repeat and irregular 
stripe; hardwood and brass; France; about 
1750 (38) 

8. Block, used for printing textiles, wavy 
lines and dots; hardwood and brass; 
France; 18th century (38) 

9. Block, used for printing textiles, flowers 
and stripes; hardwood and brass; France; 
late 18th-early 19th century (38) 

10. Block, used for printing textiles, hunting 
scene; hardwood; United States; late I8th 
century (48) 

11. Block, used for printing textiles, spread 
eagle; hardwood and brass; United States; 
I9th century (48) 

12. Bedspread, blocks and tools used for its 
printing, and chest for tools; linen, block- 
printed, wood, brass and leather; United 
States, Massachusetts, Hanover; early 18th 
century (3) 

13. "Don Quixote," cartoon, scenes from Cer- 
vantes's novel, black on white; paper, pen 
and wash drawing; designer: Lagren(5e 
(?); producer: Oberkampf; France, Jouy; 
about 1780 (14) 

14. "Don Quixote," trial proof, scenes from 



Cervantes's novel, sepia on white; paper, 
copper engraving; designer: Lagrenee (?); 
producer: Oberkampf; France, Jouy; 1780 
(14) 

15. Eleven pieces illustrating as many impres- 
sions from roller printing, seamed, poly- 
chrome; cotton; England; 20th century 
(39) 

16. Model of a roller printing press; steel and 
copper; United States; 20th century (58) 

17. Design for roller printed textile, conven- 
tionalized flowers in the Japanese manner; 
watercolor drawings; designer: Jose Mar- 
tin; United States; contemporary (36) 

18. Roller used for printing silk, design of 
conventionalized flowers in the Japanese 
manner; copper and chrome steel; en- 
graved by Cheney Brothers after a design 
by Jos^ Martin; United States; contempo- 
rary (6) 

19. Piece, conventionalized flowers in the Jap- 
anese manner, turquoise and white; silk; 
designer: Jos6 Martin; producer: Couture 
Fabrics, Ltd. (15) 

20. Stencil, branches and small leaves; paper 
and hair; Japan; 19th century (14) 

21. Stencil, hexagonal and circular motifs; 
paper; Japan; I9th century (14) 

*22. Stencil, branches of pine and wisteria; pa- 
per; Japan; 19th century (14) 

23. Silk screen and equipment used for screen- 
ing; silk, wood, brass; United States, New 
York; contemporary (56) 

24. Piece, illustrating various techniques, de- 
sign of squares with floral motifs, brown 
and warm dark hues; silk, tie-dye, stencil, 
block printing, and other techniques; Ja- 
pan; early 17th century (8) 

25. "Oranges and Lemons," length, poly- 
chrome; 36 inches wide; cotton, printed 
by the Dynascope process; United States, 
Rhode Island, Warwick; contemporary (4) 

26. Length of "Perfo Print": 36 inches wide; 
cotton, roller printed, dye cut, chemically 
sealed; The United Piece Dye Works; 
United States; contemporary (58) 

27. Pieces, experimental process; Fiberglas; 
yarn-dyed and silk screen-printed; de- 
signer and producer: D. D. and Leslie 
Tillett; United States; contemporary (56) 



28. View of automatic silk screen-printing ma- 
chine at the Stonehenge Processing Cor- 
poration, Cedar Grove, New Jersey; Photo- 
stat from a photograph lent by Jungfrau, 
Inc.; United States; contemporary (14) 

29. Indiennes, sample book of Indian and 
French examples, polychrome; folio; cot- 
ton, block-printed and painted; India and 
France; 17th to 19th centuries (26) 

30. Folding Sample Book, various mounted 
pieces, Japanese mounting, polychrome; 
small octavo; cotton, block-printed and 
painted; Japan, India, Indonesia; I7th to 
19th centuries (14) 

31. 135 Unmounted pieces, printed for a sam- 
ple book, polychrome; cotton, block- 
printed; "Manufactures d'Indienne k 
Hechler k Eauplet Ifes Rouen petit teint"; 
France, Rouen; late 18th century (46) 

32. Salesman's sample book, polychrome in- 
diennes; octavo; cotton, block-printed; 
France; 1825 (38) 

33. Salesman's folding portfolio, various 
weaves, polychrome, four pages showing 
printing; small octavo; cotton, block- 
printed; England; 1784 (14) 

34. Two letters from the Alexander Papers, a 
correspondence between James Alexander, 
merchant of New York, and David Bar- 
clay, factor, of London; paper with sam- 
ples of English printed cotton; America, 
New York; 1726 and 1749 (41) 

*35. Designer's or dyer's sample book, notes 
presumably in the owner's hand; small 
octavo; cotton, various techniques; Eng- 
land, Sussex, Bury and United States, 
Rhode Island, Providence; 1829 and ear- 
lier (14) 

36. Sample Book, polychrome; octavo; cot- 
ton, block-printed and copper-engraved; 
United States and England; 19th centurv 
(14) 

37. Six Engravings Illustrating Textile Dye- 
ing, Printing and Finishing, from Roland 
de la Platiere, "Arts et Metiers: L'Art de 
Preparer et d'Imprimer les Etoffes en 
Laines"; copper-engraved; France, Paris; 
1753 (38) 

38. "Vue des Chateaux, Village et Manufac- 
ture de Joui;" engraving; drawn by "le 
Chevalier de Lsse"; engraved by Li^nard; 
France; late 18th century (38) 

39. "Printing," showing a textile being roller- 
printed; colored aquatint; England; first 
half, 19th century (38) 

40. "Merrimack Prints," view of textile mill 
with eight cotton samples of discharge 
printing; engraving and cotton; United 
States, Massachusetts (?); about 1844 (38) 

HISTORIC PRINTING 
THE ORIENT 



41. Fragment, head and front legs of a lion, 
and cloud forms, in black with red and 



white on yellow; silk, painted or printed; 
8th century (66) 

42. Two Fragments, broken hexagon repeat 
in white with silver on natural ground; 
hemp (?); painted and stencilled; 8th cen- 
tury (39) 

43. Sutra Cover, lotus and chrysanthemum, 
black on brown; cotton, block-printed; 
Nanking; late 17th century (7) 

*44. Sutra Cover, children playing, black on 
blue; cotton, block-printed; Nanking; late 
1 7th century (7) 

45. Portion of Bed Cover or Hanging, fish and 
scroll, blue on white; cotton, stitch-resist 
dyed; Szech'uan Province, Neichang; 19th- 
20th century (50) 

46. Length, trellis with bamboo and plum 
branches, blue on white; 0.280 m. wide; 
cotton, rice paste resist-dyed (unwashed); 
19th-20th century (14) 

JAPAN 

47. Circular Fragment, lion (?) in circle of 
flame, black and some red on blue; hemp, 
stencilled and painted; 13th-14th century 
(8) 

48. Piece, bamboo and pine, blues, grey, tan 
and brown on white; 0.335 m. wide; silk, 
rice paste resist-dyed; Tokugawa; 1688- 
1703 (46) 

49. Piece, Eight Precious Things, brown, 
white and gold on blue; silk, rice paste 
resist-dyed; Tokugawa; 1764-1771 (46) 

50. Piece, polychrome flowers in the Indian 
manner, design on light brown ground; 
cotton, block-printed; 18th century (39) 

51. Length, lobsters and fans, blue on white; 
0.330 m. wide; cotton, warp and weft re- 
sist-dyed (kasuri); 19th century (61) 

52. Piece, polychrome pattern of "73 squares 
with conventionalized designs; cotton, 
block- or die-printed, direct and discharge; 
Japan (?); 19th century (39) 

53. Square, the Four Seasons — bamboo, chrys- 
anthemums, orchids and prunus each in 
white on brown, green, purple, and blue; 
silk, discharge printing; 20th century (66) 

54. Square, five large characters on ground of 
smaller characters, in one corner hexagons 
with conventionalized flowers, grey and 
green; silk, block-printed (?); 20th century 
(66) 

55. Square, pine tree by a wall; silk, block- 
printed (?); 20th century (66) 

56. Wash cloth (tenugui), Kappa, a humorous 
folk tale character, half frog, half tortoise, 
blues and greens on white; cotton, sten- 
cilled; Tokyo; 20th century (49) 

57. Entrance hanging (noren), for shop, flow- 
ers in white and green on black; cotton, 
silk screen-printed in discharge and dyed; 
Tokyo; 20th century (49) 

58. Kosode, birds and clouds in red, yellow, 
green and blue, on white; vegetable fibre, 
resist-dyed; Okinawa; 19th century (59) 



INDONESIA 

59. Piece, monkeys and cats, red with blue on 
natural ground; cotton, wax resist-dyed 
(batik); Borneo; 17th century (?) (39) 

60. Sarong, conventionalized flowers and geo- 
metric pattern, brown, blue, beige and 
gold; 0.75 m. wide; cotton, wax resist- 
dyed (batik) and gold-stamped; Java; late 
18th century (46) 

*61. Sarong, trailing vine with flowers, foliage, 
birds and insects, brown and blue on 
white, red and white border; 1.40 m. wide; 
cotton, wax resist-dyed (batik); Java; late 
18th- early 19th century (46) 

62. Square, symmetrical design o£ wings, cray- 
fish, birds in cinnamon brown and beige 
on dark blue ground; cotton, wax resist- 
dyed (batik); Java; 19th century (14) 

63. Sarong, conventionalized design, change- 
able red and yellow; silk, warp resist-dyed 
(ikat); Bali; 19th century (14) 

64. Sarong, conventionalized human figures, 
brown, red, green and black; straw, warp 
resist-dyed (ikat); Southeast Borneo; late 
19th century (54) 

65. Panung, conventionalized floral design, 
striped border, shades of blue, brown and 
yellow on red, gilded; 1.145 m. wide; cot- 
ton, wax resist (batik) and block-printed; 
Siam; 18th century (46) 



*66. Fragment, ducks surround a sixteen-lobed 
rosette representing a lotus, deep pink and 
purplish brown on natural ground; cot- 
ton, resist-dyed; found at Fostat, Egypt; 
1250-1370 (14) 

67. Fragment, border with geometrical de- 
signs, black and natural ground; cotton 
(?), block-printed resist; found at Fostat, 
Egypt; 1250-1517 (14) 

68. Fragment, rosettes in squares, blue, green 
and brown on natural ground; cotton, re- 
sist-dyed; found at Fostat, Egypt; pre-15th 
century (54) 

69. Piece, squares with conventionalized flow- 
ers, foliage and lotus, dull red and natural 
ground; cotton, block-printed; India, 
found at Fostat, Egypt; 14th-15th century 
(14) 

70. Fragment, section of medallion with tear- 
drop forms, blue and red on white; cotton, 
resist-dyed; found at Fostat, Egypt; 14th- 
15th century (54) 

71. Fragment, interlaced arabesque forms in 
shades of blue on natural ground; cotton, 
resist-dyed; found at Fostat, Egypt; 14th- 
15th century (14) 

72. Fragment, all-over small-scale repeat of 
joined trefoils, brown on natural ground; 
cotton, block-printed resist; found at Fo- 
stat, Egypt; 14th-15th century (14) 

73. Fragment, flowering boughs in violet, red 
and deep blue; cotton, painted (?); found 
at Fostat, Egypt; 14th-16th century (14) 

74. Fragment, rows of torchlike motifs above 



spotted curved lines above band of dots, 
shades of dull red on tan ground; cotton, 
block-printed resist; found at Fostat, 
Egypt; 15th-16th century (14) 

75. Fragment, conventionalized flowers and 
foliage, border with teardrop motif, black 
on white; cotton, block-printed; found at 
Fostat, Egypt; 16th-19th century (54) 

76. Bag, symmetrical design, temple flanked 
by two ladies holding fans; above: the sun 
flanked by two peacocks and trees; below: 
a vase flanked by two cows, yellow, green, 
dark blue and red; cotton, block-printed; 
Rajput (?); 16th century (66) 

77. Fragment, fine red moss pattern on white 
ground, same pattern overprinted in gold; 
cotton, block-printed: 16th century (54) 

78. Sari, regular repeat of small floral spray, 
foliate border, green, red, purple and 
gold on cream; cotton, block-printed and 
painted; early 17th century (46) 

79. Fragment, all-over lozenge pattern and 
trellis of gold dots on natural ground; silk, 
block-printed and painted; Rajput (?); 
17th-18th century (14) 

80. Fragment, diagonal repeat of flower sprig 
with paired leaves and gold dot; cotton 
block-printed and painted; Rajput (?); 
17th-18th century (14) 

81. Fragment, conventionalized leaves, gem 
colors; cotton, metal foil on gesso, painted 
with enamel; Rajput (?); 17th-18th c. (14) 

82. Bed-cover or hanging, Juno and the Pea- 
cock surrounded by flowers and strap 
work, red, blue and violet on white; 2.360 
m. wide; cotton, dyed and painted; late 
17th-early 18th century (38) 

*83. Hanging, uprooted tree, peacocks, flowers, 
red, blue, violet, green; 2.360 m. wide; cot- 
ton, dyed and painted; Madras; 1750-1775 
(14) 

84. Barber's apron, flower sprays and border, 
red, green and violet; cotton, dyed and 
painted; 1775-1800 (60) 

85. Fragment, all-over flower design, red, yel- 
low, blue, green with black for stems; cot- 
ton, dyed and painted; 18th century (14) 

86. Sari, squares with conventionalized foliage 
and eight-lobed rosettes, yellow, black, 
white and gold on red; cotton and 
metal thread, block-printed, stamped and 
painted; Karuppur; 18th century (46) 

87. Sash, border at each end of five conven- 
tionalized cypresses, surrounded by foliate 
border, green, blue and black on white; 
cotton, block-printed, dyed and painted 
on both sides of textile in exact register; 
late 18th-early 19th century (54) 

88. Two pieces of bedcovers, conventionalized 
flowers and foliage, black on yellow; cot- 
ton, block-printed; Bombay, Baroda; 1850- 
1900 (8) 

89. Piece From a Marriage Veil, blue gauze 
with bands of ornament in gold and sil- 
ver; cotton, block-printed, stamped and 
painted; Punjab, Lahore; 1850-1900 (8) 



90. Patola, lozenge and geometric pattern, 
animals in borders, red, yellow, brown, 
and blue-green; cotton, warp and we£t 
dyed (double ikat); 19th century (14) 

91. Valance, pineapple and foliage, red, blue 
and violet; cotton, dyed and painted; 19th 
century (38) 

THE NEAR EAST AND RUSSIA 

92. Fragment, with outline of decorated Kufic 
inscription, red, brown, gold on white; 
cotton, block-printed and painted; Meso- 
potamia or Persia; 9th-10th century (14) 

*93. Square, stylized foliage, geometric figures, 
animals, borders, reds, purples, blue, 
green, yellow and white; cotton, block- 
printed and painted; Persia, Yazd; 17th- 
18th century (66) 

94. Piece, from a curtain. Saint John the 
Evangelist under an arch, purple, blue, 
red; cotton, dyed and painted; Persia, 
Julfa; 18th century (66) 

95. Piece, The Entombment, black on gray; 
linen, block-printed; Armenia (?); 17th 
century (19) 

96. Hanging, conventionalized design of hands, 
horsemen, three stones of Tamerlane, blue 
on yellow; silk, block-printed and resist 
(?); Caucasus; 18th century (54) 

97. Piece, leaf and flowering vine, black and 
faded pink; linen, block-printed; Russia; 
17th century (14) 

98. Piece, all-over pattern of arches and ros- 
ettes, black on natural ground; linen, 
block-printed; Russia; 17th century (14) 

99. Piece, sprays of flowers and foliage, black 
on natural ground; linen, block-printed; 
Russia; late 17th-early 18th century (14) 

*100. Piece, two horsemen and inscription, faded 
orange, green and black on natural ground; 
linen, block-printed; Russia; 18th century 
(14) 

101. Piece, continuous ogives enclose fantastic 
floral sprays, imitation of a design woven 
in silk or velvet, faded red and green and 
black on natural ground; linen, block- 
printed; Russia; 18th century (14) 

102. Piece, serpentine scroll and flo%ver with 
border of fantastic birds, blue and orange 
on white; linen, block-printed, resist and 
direct, and painted; Russia; 18th-19th cen- 
tury (14) 

WESTERN EUROPE AND AMERICA 

GERMANY 

*103. Piece, teardrop repeat enclosing a gazelle, 
black on natural ground; linen, block- 
printed; Rhenish; 13th century (?) (14) 

104. Piece, rows of paired birds, silver on natu- 
ral ground; linen, block-printed; Rhenish; 
13th-14th century (14) 

105. Panel, two deep borders each with three 
ogival forms enclosing a pair of birds, 
flanked by fantastic monsters, red on nat- 
ural ground; 0.570 m. wide; linen, block- 
printed; Cologne; 14th century (33) 

106. Piece, conventionalized foliage and fan- 

10 



tastic monsters, gold on natural ground; 
linen, block-printed; Rhenish; 14th-15th 
century (14) 

107. Piece, conventionalized serpentine foliate 
vine; linen, block -printed resist; Augs- 
burg; 16th century (52) 

108. Piece, trellis and foliate vine, black on 
tan; linen, block-printed; Rhenish; 16th- 
17th century (14) 

109. Towel, flowers and medallion with dou- 
ble-headed eagle, double foliate border at 
top, single at bottom; linen, block -printed; 
1600-1650 (52) 

110. Piece, arabesques, black on natural ground; 
cotton, block-printed; 17th century (39) 

*111. Piece, all-over pattern of tulips and other 
flowers, black on natural ground; linen, 
block-printed; Rhenish; I7th century (52) 

112. Length, "Jerusalem, Jerusalem," scenes of 
the Resurrection alternate with scenes of 
the city, blue on white; 0.740 m. wide; 
linen, block-printed resist; end of the 17th 
century (14) 

113. Piece, zig-zag stripe, blue on natural 
ground; linen, block-printed (?); Rhenish; 
(?) 15th to 18th century (14) 

114. Piece, miniature human and bird figures 
perching in scrolling grapevines; cotton, 
block-printed; Augsburg, probably 18th 
century (52) 

THE LOW COUNTRIES 

115. Piece, two scenes: two monks and a priest 
beneath trees above a small house, and 
urn with flowers and two birds, red, green 
and yellow on natural ground; linen, 
block-printed; Holland; 17th century (46) 

116. Hanging, conventionalized foliage, imitat- 
ing a design woven in velvet, red-brown 
(originally black) on white; jute (?), sten- 
cilled (?) and flocked with wool; Flanders 
(?) (39) 

117. Piece, two scenes: man and woman be- 
neath a tree, and flowers in an urn; jute, 
block-printed; Holland; early 18th cen- 
tury (39) 

118. Wall covering, landscapes in octagonal 
frames alternate with rosettes; linen, block- 
printed; The Netherlands; late ISth-early 
19th century (52) 

FRANCE 

119. Seat Cover tor Chair, unmounted, flowers 
in the Chinese manner, polychrome; cot- 
ton, block-printed; 1750-1775 (39) 

120. Piece, roses on continuous vertical vine, 
polychrome and white on pink; cotton, 
block-printed; "Manufacture de I. R. 
Wetter, ft sa Compagnie A Orange Bon 
Teint 1766,", end of bolt; Orange; 1766- 
1775 (39) 

121. Don Quixote, length, scenes from Cer- 
vantes's novel, violet on white; 0.930 m. 
wide; cotton, copperplate-printed; design- 
er: Lagrenee (?); producer: Oberkampf; 
Jouy; 1780 (14) 



122. Shift, regular scattered flower repeat, red, 
purple and blue on white; linen, block- 
printed; about 1780 (60) 

123. "Les Travaux de la Manufacture," 14 
scenes showing as many steps in the proc- 
ess of making a toile de Jouy, red on natu- 
ral ground; cotton, copper engraving; de- 
signer: J. B. Huet (1745-1811); producer: 
Oberkampf; Jouy; 1783 (38) 

124. "La Toilette de Venus et la Marchande 
d'Amour," Venus with attendants, nymphs 
with cupids in a tree, cupids in a basket, 
other scenes, polychrome on white; 0.810 
m. wide; cotton, copper engraving, color 
block-printed; F. A. Petitpierre Frere et 
Cie; Nantes; probably 1785-1790 (8) 

125. Length, conventionalized leaf pattern, 
blue on white; 0.390 m. wide; linen, re- 
sist-dyed; 1790 (14) 

126. Length, flowers and foliage in the Indian 
manner, polychrome on white; 0.685 m. 
wide; cotton, block-printed; 18th century 
(39) 

127. Piece, all-over design of flower sprays in 
the Indian manner, polychrome; cotton, 
block-printed; probably Jouy; 18th cen- 
tury (14) 

128. Piece from a skirt, flowers and serpentine 
garlands of foliage, polychrome on cream; 
cotton, block-printed; i8th century (14) 

129. Piece from a skirt, sprays of flowers, poly- 
chrome on cream; cotton, block-printed; 
18th century (14) 

130. Piece, vertical repeat of flowers alternates 
with double interlaced band, violet and 
light blue on off-white; cotton, block- 
printed; 18th century (14) 

131. Piece, dense flower repeat, in the Indian 
manner, polychrome on white; cotton, 
block-printed (?); 18th century (14) 

132. Length, chinoiserie landscape with figures, 
blue on white; 1.0 m. wide; cotton, resist- 
dyed; Alsace (?); 18th century (14) 

133. Sash, arabesques and neo-classical scene, 
greens and rose on white; silk, copper en- 
graving; late 18th century (14) 

134. Three Pieces, seamed together, repeats of 
flowers, figures, ruins and stripe, poly- 
chrome on white; cotton, block-printed; 
late 18th century (14) 

135. Apron, floral repeat, blue, red and brown 
on white; linen, block-printed; late 18th 
century (60) 

"136. Piece, dolphins, roses and double serpen- 
tine stripe, reds, green, blues and brown; 
linen, block-printed; Nantes (?); late 18th- 
early 19th century (14) 

137. Piece, rosette flanked by conventionalized 
foliage, red, brown and black; silk velvet, 
warp-printed (^'Velours Gregoire"); early 
19th century (14) 

138. Piece, red rosettes scattered on mustard 
yellow ground; cotton, block-printed; early 
19th century (14) 

139. Piece, chinoiserie of monkeys, garden 
houses and flowering garlands, orange. 



brown and black on yellow; silk, velvet, 
warp-printed {chine a. la branche); France 
or England; early 19th century (14) 

140. Piece, scenes with figures, children and 
animals, red, purple, blue, bufE and black 
on natural ground; cotton, copper engrav- 
ing; about 1825 (14) 

141. Piece, lilies and orchids, foliage, pastel 
shades on white; cotton, copper engrav- 
ing; about 1830 (14) 

142. Piece, stripes broken by bands of gothic 
arches, blue-green, buff and dark brown; 
cotton, copper engraving; France or Eng- 
land; 1830-1850 (14) 

143. Piece, solid pattern of large-scale roses, 
lilacs and foliage, reds, blues, brown; cot- 
ton, copper engraving; about 1850 (14) 

144. Length, foliate vines and dot, reds, violet, 
blue and green; 0.790 m. wide; cotton, 
copper engraving; probably France; 1850- 
1875 (8) 

145. Piece, triangles in chromatic shades of vio- 
let; silk, warp-printed; 1850-1900 (48) 

146. Piece, peacocks and foliage, black and sal- 
mon pink; cotton, copper engraving and 
"home dyed"; 19th century (14) 

147. Piece, conventionalized flowers, purple, 
dark gray, black and white on light gray; 
silk, block-printed (?); producer: La 
Maison Martine; Paris; about 1920 (39) 

148. Piece, conventionalized design, poly- 
chrome; silk voided velvet, roller-printed; 
20th century (48) 

149. "The Thresher," length, scene, red on 
white; cotton, block-printed; Raoul Dufy 
(1877-1953); about 1930 (14) 

150. Length, conventionalized foliage, blue and 
yellow on natural ground; cotton, block- 
printed; Raoul Dufy (1877-1953); about 
1930 (14) 

ENGLAND 

151. "The Aviary or Bird Fanciers Recreation," 
snuff handkerchief, landscape with figures 
and 14 birds each with descriptive notes, 
blue on white; linen, copper engraving; 
about 1750 (60) 

*152. Piece, fantastic scene, figures, architecture, 
flowers, scrolls, in the Chinese manner, 
blue on white; cotton, copper engraving; 
possibly by Jean Baptiste Pillement (1728- 
1808); Bromley Hall; about 1765 (14) 

153. Piece, landscape with figures, farmhouse, 
windmill, sheep, red on white; cotton, 
copper engraving; about 1765 (39) 

154. Banyan, or dressing gown, foliate vines, 
polychrome on white; cotton, block- 
printed; 1750-1800 (60) 

155. Piece, scattered flowers alternate with 
wreathed panels of medallions and cher- 
ubs, black and red on mustard ground; 
cotton, block-printed; 1775-1800 (48) 

156. Man's Loiuiging Cap, flowering branches, 
polychrome on white; cotton, block- 
printed; England or France; 18th century 
(60) 

11 



157. Piece, large scale flower and leaf design; 
silk, copper engraving (?); England (?); 
18th century (52) 

158. Piece, flower sprays and acanthus leaves, 
polychrome on beige; cotton, copper en- 
graving; about 1820 (14) 

159. Apron, scattered flowers, animals and 
buildings in the Chinese manner, poly- 
chrome on white; cotton, block-printed; 
England (?); 1800-1830 (14) 

160. Length, memorial to Lord Nelson, obe- 
lisks, urns, pyramids and figure of Nelson 
in niche with appropriate inscriptions, in- 
tertwined with brilliant polychrome flow- 
ers in the Indian manner; 0.953 m. wide; 
cotton, copper engraving (?) and block- 
printed; 1800-1830 (39) 

161. Piece, "gothick" niche repeat, red, blue, 
brown and white; cotton, copper engrav- 
ing; about 1840 (39) 

162. Piece, scenes of hunting and fishing framed 
by vines, polychrome; cotton, copper en- 
graving; about 1850 (14) 

163. Piece, flowers and foliage, polychrome on 
tan ground; cotton, copper engraving and 
block-printed; about 1850 (39) 

164. Piece, interlaced conventionalized foliage 
in circular repeat, blue on white; cotton, 
block-printed; designed and produced by 
William Morris (1834-1896); about 1890 
(14) 

165. Piece, flowers and foliage, yellow-orange 
on white; cotton, block-printed; designed 
and produced by William Morris (1834- 
1896); about 1890 (14) 

166. Piece, frieze of crocuses alternates with 
one of daffodils, tan, yellow, olive and red; 
cotton, block-printed on both sides; de- 
signer: Arthur Wilcock; about 1890 (14) 

167. Piece, frieze of crocuses alternates with 
one of dafliodils, shades of rose; cotton vel- 
vet, block-printed; designer: Arthur Wil- 
cock; about 1890 (14) 

168. Piece, simulating patchwork, scenes after 
the illustrations for "The Pickwick Pa- 
pers" by Hablot Knight Browne (1815- 
1882) alternate with various small prints, 
polychrome; cotton, copper engraving; 
19th century (39) 

169. "The Strawberry Thief," birds in a straw- 
berry patch, polychrome; cotton, block- 
printed; designer: William Morris (1834- 
1890); producer: Morris & Co., Decorators, 
Ltd.; 1900-1920 (14) 

170. "Rose" conventionalized repeat of flowers, 
foliage, and paired birds, polychrome on 
white; cotton, block-printed; designer: 
William Morris (1834-1890); prdoucer: 
Cowtan & Tout, Inc.; about 1934 (14) 

171. "Honeysuckle," rose-colored blossoms on 
blue foliage; cotton, block-printed; de- 
signer: William Morris (1834-1896); pro- 
ducer: Cowtan & Tout, Inc.; about 1934 
(14) 

12 



OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIES 

172. Length, double-handled vases alternate 
with irregular octagons connected by diag- 
onal interlace, blue on white; 0.365 m. 
wide; linen, resist-dyed; Italy, Bologna; 
15th century (19) 

173. Piece, conventionalized foliage imitating 
a woven design, red and green on natural; 
cotton, block-printed, stencilled (?) and 
flocked with wool; Italy; 17th century (19) 

174. Mezzaro, flowers, foliage, and animals in 
the Indian manner, polychrome; 2.680 m. 
wide; cotton, block-printed; F(abbri)ca Di 
Luigi, manufacturer; Italy, Genoa, Sara- 
pierdarena; 1846 (14) 

175. Length, conventionalized foliage imitating 
a woven design, silver on deep rose; 1.900 
m. wide; silk velvet, Fortuny process; 
Mariano Fortuny, Italy, Venice; 1900-1930 
(14) 

*176. Fragment, double ogive repeat framing 
pomegranate and crowns, black on natu- 
ral; linen and cotton block-printed; Spain; 
late 16th century (14) 

177. Piece, flowers and foliage in the Indian 
manner, brown on white; 1.060 m. wide; 
linen, copper engraving; Spain or Portu- 
gal; 1775-1785 (39) 

178. Length, birds and flowers in the Indian 
manner, polychrome on white; 0.863 m. 
wide; cotton, block-printed; Spain; 18th- 
19th century (39) 

179. Piece, "Vista del Monasterio de Montser- 
rat" and "Vista del Puerte de Diablo in 
Martorell," two landscapes repeated and 
surrounded by flowers and foliage, blue; 
cotton, copper engraving; Spain; Mid- 
19th century (14) 

180. Length, scattered bird and flower repeat 
in black against red and white stripes; 
0.791 m. wide; cotton, copper engraving; 
Spain; 19th century (39) 

181. Piece, symmetrical design of flowers, foli- 
age and fruit, yellow, green, white, blue 
and red; linen, stencilled and painted (?); 
Switzerland; end of the 17th century (19) 

182. Piece, buildings alternate with flower 
sprays, black, red, yellow, purple and 
white; cotton, copper engraving; Switzer- 
land (?); about 1795 (46) 

183. Piece, Psyche (?) and two cherubs swinging 
on a garland framed by large-scale flowers 
and foliage, violet on white; cotton, cop- 
per engraving; Alsace, Mulhouse; 1825- 
1830 (39) 

184. Piece, scattered flower repeat, mauve on 
yellow; silk, block-printed; Austria, Vi- 
enna; Wiener Werkstatte; about 1920 (39) 

185. Piece, scattered flower repeat, yellow, pink 
and white on gray; silk, block-printed; 
Austria, Vienna; Wiener Werkstatte; 
about 1920 (39) 

186. Piece, feathers and arrows against shaded 
stripes, blues on gray; silk, block-printed; 
Austria, Vienna; Wiener Werkstatte; about 
1920 (39) 







^jttftk l W^w' Ni* 



Fig. 1. Detail of S(hi\r]:, lotlon, painltil ami ihcil 
Persia, Yazd, 17th-18th century 
Yale University Art Gallery 







rV, 



Fic. 3. Detail of Sarong, cotton, wax 



/'Z^'^ JJ^ ^-~iy^'*J\, ^ '^7 r-! I'l lliesist-dved (tn/;/i) and painted 

{_>/\ Y/^ ■- ^/"'-r X' ji ' ir -'^ [ y ^ Java, late 18th-eailv 19th century 

^/ W^y ^^ J yU^ f f^ J^n ''"— 'rv' The Philadelphia Sluseum of Art 






M 7(^-z/^ 



^iJP^^ffn' 



Fig. 2. Sutra Cover, cotton, block -printed 
China, Nanking, late 17th century 
Miss G. F. Bieber 







« 

Cv^ 



r-'-^> 






^r*i%4 



X«j^ 






Fig. 4. Designer's or Dyer's SA^rpLE Book^ printed anions wiili 
notes piesumabl)' in the owner's hand 

England, Sussex, Biuy and United Slates. Rhode Island. Providence 
1829 and earlier 
The Cooper Union Museum 




Fig. 5. Detail of Stencil, papei 
Japan. 19th century 
The Cooper Union Museum 




Fir.. 6. Fragment, cotton, resist-dyed 

India, totmd at Fostat, Egypt, 1250-1370 
The Cooper Union Musenm 





Fig. 7. Two Tjap Stamps, copper, used to apply wax on a printed batik 
Java, 19th century 
Mrs. James Imam Pamoedjo 



Fig. 8. Piece, linen. hlotk-iJiiniii 
Rhenish, Killi (cnuirv (?) 






!- ■:^i"'«|$>g 



J^ 



Tie 1 Frvgment linen and cotton block punted 
Spain late 16th century 
The Cooper Union Museum 



.^* 






w-^i«^. 







Fig. 10. Piece, linen, block-printed 
Rhenish, 17th centniy 
Landesoewei'beamt .Stuttgart 




Fig. 11. Piece, linen, block-printed 
Russia, 18th century 
The Cooper Union Museum 




12 111 1 \ii orHwfiNr toUoii ]) uiucd and dyed 
India Madias 1750 1775 
The Coopei Union Musenm 










■^'^■ 


->: 


^^'^ - 


' 










^'^ . 





h^^.dX ' ■/fe:2N^'*<'«<'^r 




1 ir n I'll ( 1 ((illiin cn^i ncd coppci pi lie 

Possibh Jem Biptisie Pillemciit (172s IbOs) 
En^lmd BiomIe\ Hall abont lib) 
The Coopei Union Museum 




Tic 14 Pilci linen lilock punted 

Fiance posMiilv Nantes late 18th-earlv Ullli cciUuin 
The Coopei Lnion Museum 




Fig 15 Piece, cotton, resist-dved 
America (?), 18th centuvv 
Albany Institute of History and Art 




Fi(,, lb 15ii)srRr,AD, couon. block-piiiilcd 
John Hewson (1744-1821) 
United States, Philadelphia, late 18th cenlin 
The Philadelphia Museum ol Art 




Fig. 17. Length cotton block punted 

Holland foi the Congo nniket con tern poiarv 
J. Get bet and Co., Inc. 




Tig. 18 



"Rex'v," length, linen, screen-printed 

Viola Grasten, Nordiska Konipaniet, Sweden. Stockholm. contcmporar\ 

Wolfin Associates 




Fig. 19. "Rain," length, silk sheer, screen-printed 

Alexander Girard, United States, contemporary 
Herman Miller 




Fig. 20. "Coi'iic Horse, ' length, cotton, block-prinlcd 

Dorothy Mac Nab, Jamaica, B.W.I., contcmporarv 
Thaibok Fabrics, Ltd. 




Tic 21 ' LiL\ ' lengLli. \^ool '.cieen \Mth o\eipiinted stupe 

Doiib and Leslie Tillett United States, New Yoik, 1954 
D D. and Leslie Tillett 




Tic 22 1 k vmh il 11 MsBolr linen, bciecn punted 
Lzio Maitmelli United States, contempoiai\ 
Morton Sundour Company, Inc. 



UNITED STATES 

*187. Piece, floral design, blue on white, with 
tax stamp: crowned cipher G. R. and "-alli- 
coe J"; cotton, resist-dyed; America (?); 
18th century (1) 
188. Child's waistcoat, scattered flower repeat, 
red and blue on white; cotton, block- 
printed; Connecticut; early-mid 18th cen- 
tury (3) 

*189. Bedspread, vase o£ flowers surrounded by 
scattered flowers, birds and insects, three 
borders, polychrome; cotton, block - 
printed; John Hewson (1744-1821); Phila- 
delphia; late 18th century (46) 

190. Curtain, vertical flowering vines alternate 
with columns of lace, brown, green and 
red on natural; cotton, block-printed; 
Walters & Bedwell; Philadelphia; late 
18th century (3) 

191. Piece, serpentine foliage with birds, blue 
on white; cotton, resist-dyed; 18th century 
(14) 

192. Death of General Washington, memorial 
handkerchief; in center, circular scene of 
Washington on his death-bed attended by 
four persons, around this six medallions 
bearing appropriate sentiments, red on 
white; linen, copper engraved; Pember 
and Luzarder; United States; Philadel- 
phia; about 1800 (65) 

193. Fragment, flowered vine, blue and yellow 
on orange; cotton, block-printed; early 
19th century; (3) 

194. Tablecloth, floral and bird motifs, red, 
green, yellow and blue on natural cotton, 
stencilled; Pennsylvania; first half of the 
19th century (3) 

195. "Capital and Labor," piece, scattered re- 
peat of scenes inscribed; "Honor to the 
iron worker," "Labor is honorable," "After 
work the happy home," each scene framed 
in roses, light brown and red on dark 
brown; cotton, copper engraving (?); about 
1870 (39) 

196. Length, sprays of flowers and scrolling 
vines in lavender and red against vertical 
yellow and white stripe; 0.623 m. wide; 
cotton, copper engraving; Massachusetts, 
Fall River; 19th century (39) 

PERU 

197. Fragment, repeat of seated cat in a square, 
white, tan and brown; cotton, block- 
printed (?) and painted; coastal region; 
8th-9th century (46) 

198. Fragment, diagonal repeat of birds and 
fish, highly conventionalized, brown and 
white; cotton, resist-dyed and painted; 
Central Coast llth-15th century (14) 

199. Fragment, repeat of seated cat in square 
alternates with square of zig-zags, brown, 
yellow, white and tan; cotton, block- 
printed (?); coastal region; llth-14th cen- 
tury (46) 

200. Fragment, horizontal zig-zag stripes with 
borders, enclosing conventionalized birds. 



brown, blue, and greenish blue; cotton, 
block-printed (?) and painted; North 
Coast; 13th-15th century (14) 

201. Portion of a Hanging, Chimu warriors 
divided by vertical bands, brown, yellow 
and red; cotton, tie-dyed; 1300-1438 (54) 

CONTEMPORARY PRINTING 

1946-1956 
All textiles in this section have been produced 
in the United States unless otherwise noted. 

TEXTILES FOR DECORATING 

202. "Gothic," wall hanging, yellow, white on 
brown; silk, wax resist-dyed (batik); de- 
signer and producer: Howard Jones (2) 

203. "Mushrooms," wall hanging, polychrome 
and black on white; silk, wax resist-dyed 
(batik); designer and producer: Helen 
Frick Jones (2) 

204. "Eagles," orange on natural ground; cot- 
ton, silk screen-printed; producer: Brun- 
schwig & Fils (9) 

205. "Tanlay, "floral columns, copy of 18th cen- 
tury French blue resist, white and blue; 
cotton, silk screen-printed; producer: 
Brunschwig & Fils (9) 

206. "Big Apple," conventionalized segmented 
apple in diaper repeat, grey, brown, yel- 
low, rust, green; cotton, silk screen- 
printed; designed by Cheney Studios; pro- 
ducer: Cheney, Greeff & Co., Inc. (11) 

207. "Little Apple," conventionalized seg- 
mented apple in diaper repeat, grey, 
brown, yellow, rust, green; cotton, silk 
screen-printed; designed by Cheney Stu- 
dios; producer: Cheney, Greeff & Co., Inc. 

(11) 

208. "Blackburn," alternating stripes of leaves 
and berries, yellow and red; cotton, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Robert Black- 
burn; producer: Cheney, Greeff & Co., Inc. 

(11) 

209. "Flowering Quince," black, red on white; 
Fiberglas, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Don Wight; producer; Cheney, Greefl^ & 
Co., Inc. (11) 

210. "Composition," conventionalized shelves 
and vases, black, yellow on grey; cotton, 
silk screen-printed; designed by Jean and 
Helen Gazagnaire; producer: Cheney, 
Greeff & Co., Inc. (11) 

211. "Survey," aerial ground view, yellow block, 
grey on white; Fiberglas, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Don Eckelberry; pro- 
ducer: Cheney, Greeff & Co., Inc. (11) 

212. "Etude," ancient instruments, metallic 
gold on white; fortisan and rayon sheer, 
silk screen-printed; designer: Ann Shep- 
ardson; producer: Cheney, Greeff & Co., 
Inc. (11) 

213. "Mountain Garden," scattered flowers, 
black, red on metallic gold blotched 
ground; cotton, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer; Marion Dorn; producer: Cheney, 
Greeff & Co., Inc. (11) 

13 



215. 



217. 



220. 



222. 



224. 
225. 



227. 
228. 



"Downstream," underwater foliage and 
fish, blue, green on white; cotton and tor- 
tisan, silk screen-printed; designer: Ya 
Chun Wang; producer: Cheney, Greeff & 
Co., Inc. (11) 

"Jingle-Jangle," wind chime motif on 
woven stripe, pink, red, yellow, black on 
black and white; fortisan and rayon, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Francis Dearden; 
producer: Cheney, Greeff & Co., Inc. (11) 
"Jackstraws," geometric, gold and grey; 
goat's hair, silk screen-printed; designed 
by Baldwin and Machado; producer: 
Arundell Clarke (12) 

"Stroom Draden," black on natural 
ground; cotton, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Pierre Kleykamp; producer: Arun- 
dell Clarke (12) 

"Escalier," impressionistic spiral staircase, 
red, black, and green on grey; goat's hair 
and cotton; silk, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Joe Martin; producer: Arundell 
Clarke ( ) 

"Decided," panel, square on square, grey 
and black on natural ground; linen, silk 
screen -printed; designer: Josef Albers; 
producer: Arundell Clarke (12) 
"Structure in Two Colors," black, violet, 
brown; cotton, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: C. Coggeshall; producer: Arundell 
Clarke (12) 

"Miss Prism," blue, rust and dark grey; 
cotton, silk screen-printed; designer: Al- 
bert Herbert; producer: Arundell Clarke 
(12) 

"Back Yard," green, red and brown; Fiber- 
glas, silk screen-printed; designer: A. 
Goodspeed; producer: Arundell Clarke 
(12) 

"Structural Distance," panel, rust, yellow 
and blue; silk, silk screen-printed; de- 
signed by Jean and Helen Gazagnaire; 
producer: Arundell Clarke (12) 
"Discus," yellow and orange; linen, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Frederic Karoly; 
producer: Arundell Clarke CI 2) 
"Thumbnail," pink, grey and red; cot- 
ton, silk screen-printed; designed by The 
Blockhouse of Boston; producer: Arundell 
Clarke (12) 

"Van Dyke Squares," blue on white; cot- 
ton, silk screen discharge-printed; design- 
er: Philip Johnson; producer: Arundell 
Clarke (12) 

"Squares," green; silk, silk screen-printed; 
producer: Arundell Clarke (12) 
"Perpetual Vine," Tudor rose on ara- 
besque ground, black, yellow on natural 
ground; linen, silk screen-printed; pro- 
ducer: Creative Looms, Inc. (16) 
"Shadowy Squares," shaded blocks, black, 
blue on natural ground; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Jane Sandelin; pro- 
ducer: Creative Looms, Inc. (16) 
"Crystallite," star motif, blue, metallic 
gold on natural ground; linen sheer, silk 



screen-printed; designer: Allen Smith; 
producer: Creative Looms, Inc. (16) 

231. "Semi-Circles," broken circles, red, yellow 
on white; linen, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Pierre Kleykamp; producer: Crea- 
tive Looms, Inc. (16) 

232. "Harlequins," diamonds, green, brown on 
beige; fortisan, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Joseph Pravata; producer: Creative 
Looms, Inc. (16) 

233. "Stretch-A-Point," stripe of undulating 
line, green, violet, black on white; linen, 
silk screen-printed; designer: Ruth Adler; 
producer: Adler-Schnee Designs (16) 

234. "Door to Door," orange line on grey and 
pink stripes; cotton sheer, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Ruth Adler; producer: 
Adler-Schnee Designs (16) 

238. Kitchen Towel, utensils, black, blue on 
green; linen, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Don Wight; producer: Hedaya Brothers 
(25) 

239. Kitchen Towel, utensils, black, yellow on 
grey; linen, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Don Wight; producer: Hedaya Brothers 
(25) 

240. Kitchen Towel, utensils, brown, yellow on 
straw ground; linen, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Don Wight; producer: Hedaya 
Brothers (25) 

241. "Color Blocks," textural brick pattern, 
brown, grey, rust on white; fortisan, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Hugo Dreyfuss; 
producer: Kagan-Dreyfuss, Inc. (27) 

242. "Stars," formal repeat of sunburst motif, 
brown, white on white; cotton sheer, silk 
screen-printed in pigment; designer: Hugo 
Dreyfuss; producer: Kagan-Dreyfuss, Inc. 
(27) 

243. "Rooster," silhouetted bird, black on 
white; linen, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Emanuel Romano; producer: Kagan-Drey- 
fuss, Inc. (27) 

244. "Texture #2," formal repeat of free spots, 
black on natural ground; silk, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Hugo Dreyfuss; pro- 
ducer: Kagan-Dreyfuss, Inc. (27) 

245. "Circles, Texture 3C," textural, black, 
white on natural ground; cotton, silk 
screen-printed in pigments; designer: 
Hugo Dreyfuss; producer: Kagan-Drey- 
fuss, Inc. (27) 

246. "Texture #6," lines diagonally crossed 
through squares, yellow on white; cotton, 
silk screen-printed; designer: Hugo Drey- 
fuss; producer: Kagan-Dreyfuss, Inc. (27) 

247. "Texture #10," free-forra trailing motifs, 
tan, green on white; cotton sheer, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Hugo Dreyfuss; 
producer: Kagan-Dreyfuss, Inc. (27) 

248. "Fibra," lines with loops, white on natural 
ground; linen, silk screen-printed in pig- 
ment; designer: Eszter Haraszty; producer: 
Knoll Associates, Inc. (28) 

249. "Ringles," interlocked circles, blue on 
blue; linen, silk screen-printed; designer: 



14 



Carol Summers; producer: Knoll Associ- 
ates, Inc. (28) 

250. "Triad," vertical stripes, blocks, black on 
grey; cotton, "milium"-backed, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Eszter Haraszty; pro- 
ducer: Knoll Associates, Inc. (28) 

251. "Cooper Square," design inspired by 
Cooper Union building, blues on natural 
textural weave; cotton, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Irma Schneider; producer: Kon- 
wiser. Inc. (29) 

252. "Largo," interlocking geometric motifs, 
violet, green, blue; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Sara Provan; producer: 
Konwiser, Inc. (29) 

253. "Yang & Yin," interlocking free-form mo- 
tifs, yellow and white; cotton and rayon, 
silk screen-printed; designer: Gloria Pri- 
val; producer: Konwiser, Inc. (29) 

254. "Graphis," textural stripe, violet on light 
blue; linen, silk screen-printed; designer; 
Irving Seidenberg; producer: Konwiser, 
Inc. (29) 

255. "Attica," horizontal stripes of geometric 
vase forms, black on blue; linen, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Joe Bascom; pro- 
ducer: Konwiser, Inc. (29) 

256. "Spearhead," triangular motifs, yellow, 
violet on white; fortisan, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Jason Harvey; pro- 
ducer: Konwiser, Inc. (29) 

257. "Crushed Rock," small geometric, brown, 
grey on textured weave; cotton, silk screen- 
printed; designed and produced by Kon- 
wiser, Inc. (29) 

258. "Capriccio," textural pattern, browns, 
greys on grey; linen, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Sara Provan; producer: Kon- 
wiser, Inc. (29) 

259. "Lustrum," broad broken stripe, black, 
brown on white; cotton and rayon, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Sara Provan; 
producer: Konwiser, Inc. (29) 

260. "Archway," black, brown on white; forti- 
san, silk screen-printed in pigment; de- 
signer: Jason Harvey; producer: Konwiser, 
Inc. (29) 

201. "Pathway," ladder maze, white on white; 
cotton, sheer, silk screen-printed in pig- 
ment; designer: Sara Provan; producer: 
Konwiser, Inc. (29) 

262. "Vista," textural horizontal stripe suggest- 
ing landscape, violet on white; cotton 
sheer, silk screen-printed; designer: Sara 
Provan; producer: Konwiser, Inc. (29) 

263. "Kiagara," shell motif, reds on yellow; 
cotton sheer, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Boris Kroll; producer: Boris Kroll Fabrics, 
Inc. (30) 

264. "Calligraphy," hieroglyphic characters, 
blue, violet, green on white; cotton sheer, 
silk screen-printed; designer: Boris Kroll; 
producer: Boris Kroll Fabrics, Inc. (30) 

265. "Calligraphy," hieroglyphic characters, 
blue, violet, green on natural groimd; 
linen, silk screen-printed; designer: Boris 



Kroll; producer: Boris Kroll Fabrics, Inc. 
(30) 

266. "Marakesh," geometric architectural de- 
sign, greys, black on natural ground; cot- 
ton and goat's hair, silk screen-printed; 
producer: S. Kravet & Son, Inc. (14) 

267. "Bouquet Garni," botanical specimens in 
line on washes of color, black, green on 
white; fortisan, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Don Wight; producer: Jack Lenor 
Larsen, Inc. (31) 

268. "Spice Garden," impressionistic rendering 
of flowers, greens, blues; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer: June Groff; producer: 
Jack Lenor Larsen, Inc. (31) 

269. "Circles," textural design made from the 
imprint of egg crates, metallic gold and 
silver on white; fortisan, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Sari Dienes; producer: 
Jack Lenor Larsen, Inc. (31) 

270. "Tree Saw," design made of the imprint 
of a broad logging saw in horizontal 
stripes, metallic silver on natural ground; 
linen sheer, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Sari Dienes; producer: Jack Lenor Larsen, 
Inc. (31) 

271. "Tree Saw," design made of the imprint 
of a broad logging saw in horizontal 
stripes, chartreuse on white; Fiberglas, 
silk screen-printed; designer: Sari Dienes; 
producer: Jack Lenor Larsen, Inc. (31) 

272. "Eclipse," length and quilted piece, bi- 
sected circles, browns, violet; linen, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Warren Platner; 
producer: Jack Lenor Larsen, Inc. (31) 

273. "Eclipse," bisected circles, yellows; cotton 
velvet, silk screen-printed; designer: War- 
ren Platner; producer: Jack Lenor Larsen, 
Inc. (31) 

274. "Conifer," panel of single design of bare 
trees, grey, white on natural ground; linen 
sheer, silk screen-printed in dye and pig- 
ment: designer: Shirley St. John; pro- 
ducer: Jack Lenor Larsen, Inc. (31) 

275. "Scultura," horizontal amoeboid motif, 
green on white; cotton and fortisan, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
Elenhank Designers (31) 

276. "Open House," line drawing of cocktail 
guests in all-over repeat over horizontal 
washes, brown on white; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer and producer: Elenhank 
Designers (31) 

277. "Printing Presses," various presses and 
type faces, black on white; linen, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
Elenhank Designers (31) 

278. "Heroica," pair of panels printed with 
one architectural engraving by Giovanni 
Battista Piranesi (n20-1776), black on 
white; fortisan, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer and producer: Laverne Inc. (32) 

279. "Holiday," segmented rectangles, black 
and natural ground; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer: R. Littell; producer: 
Laverne Incorporated (32) 

15 



281. 
282. 

283. 

284. 



286. 



287. 



291 



"Tiger Heads," whimsical heads o£ the 
animal, yellow-green, black on brown; cot- 
ton, silk screen-printed; designed by Juliet 
and Gyorgy Kepes; producer: Laverne In- 
corporated (32) 

"Pin Points," single coin dot, black on 
white; silk sheet, silk screen-printed; pro- 
ducer: Laverne Incorporated (32) 
"Venetian Stripe," broken stripe, yellow, 
grey, pink on white; Fiberglas, silk screen- 
printed; producer: Laverne Incorporated 
(32) 

"Florentine Stripe," broken stripe, green, 
metallic gold, grey on grey; Fiberglas, silk 
screen-printed in pigment; producer: La- 
verne Incorporated (32) 
"Splotchy," abstract, brown, orange, green 
on white; cotton and rayon, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Alexander Calder; pro- 
ducer: Laverne Incorporated (32) 
"Wheels," circular line motif, cross- 
banded at intervals, black, metallic gold 
on white; cotton sheer, silk screen-printed; 
designed by Jason Kirby and Anton Maix; 
producer: L. Anton Maix, Inc. (35) 
"Tesserae," mosaic o£ polychrome and 
black on white; cotton sheer, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Jason Kirby; producer: 
L. Anton Maix, Inc. (35) 
"Infinity," hexagonal fields o£ texture and 
solid color, yellow, rust, black on white; 
linen, silk screen-printed; designer: Pierre 
Kleykamp; producer: L. Anton Maix, Inc. 
(35) 

"Thatch," textural, browns on natural 
ground; linen, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Paul McCobb; producer: L. Anton 
Maix, Inc. (35) 

"Elements," geometric lines and diamonds, 
yellow, black on natural ground; linen, 
silk screen-printed; designer; Olga Baugh- 
man; producer: L. Anton Maix, Inc. (35) 
"Abacus," black, grey, beige on natural 
ground; linen, silk screen-printed; design- 
er: Paul Rand; producer: L. Anton Maix, 
Inc. (35) 

"Variations," circles and triangles, black, 
grey on white; cotton sheer, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Albert Herbert; pro- 
ducer: L. Anton Maix, Inc. (35) 
"Ditto," ombr^ dot, black on white; cot- 
ton sheer, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Eric Nitsche; producer: L. Anton Maix, 
Inc. ( ) 

"Amour," circles of script, red, yellow, 
grey on white; linen, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Felix Augenfeld; producer: L. 
Anton Maix, Inc. (35) 
"Rhombus," geometric, solid color and 
line, yellow, black on white; linen, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Paul McCobb; 
producer: L. Anton Maix, Inc. (35) 
. "Hi, Larry," geometric, orange, black on 
white; linen, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Elsie Krummeck; producer: L. Anton 
Maix, Inc. (35) 



296. "Eyes Right," mosaic, polychrome on 
white; cotton sheer, silk screen-printed; 
designer: George Farkas; producer: L. An- 
ton Maix, Inc. (35) 

297. "Eyes Right," mosaic with over-printed 
circles, polychrome, black on natural 
ground; linen, silk screen-printed; design- 
er: George Farkas; producer: L. Anton 
Maix, Inc. (35) 

298. "Asterisk," red, yellow, blue, black on 
white; linen, silk screen-printed; designer: 
H. Nitsche; producer: L. Anton Maix, Inc. 
(35) 

299. "Vintage," grape clusters, violet, green on 
white; cotton, wood-block-printed in pig- 
ments, each motif from one impression; 
designer and producer: Gilbert Rose (37) 

300. "Harvest," wheat sheaves, yellow on white; 
linen, wood-block-printed; designer and 
producer: Gilbert Rose (37) 

301. "Ivy," trailing pattern, shades of blue, 
metallic gold on white; silk sheer, wood- 
block-printed in pigments, each motif 
from two impressions; designer and pro- 
ducer: Gilbert Rose (37) 

302. "Sunflower," red on white; cotton, wood- 
block-printed in pigment; designer and 
producer: Gilbert Rose (37) 

*303. "Rain," overprinted geometric design, 
blue, red, orange on white; silk sheer, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Alexander Gir- 
ard; producer: Herman Miller (40) 

304. "Cut Out," geometric paper-cutting motif, 
violet, blue, green on red; cotton, silk 
screen-printed in pigments; designer: 
Alexander Girard; producer: Herman 
Miller (40) 

305. "Mikado," chrysanthemum motif on al- 
ternating squares of color, rust, orange on 
white; silk sheer, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Alexander Girard; producer: Her- 
man Miller (40) 

306. "Triangles," alternating triangles of color, 
brown, grey, violet; silk sheer, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Alexander Girard; pro- 
ducer: Herman Miller (40) 

307. "Quatrefoil," formal repeat in alternat- 
ing colors, black, pink, violet, mauve, blue 
on brown; cotton, silk screen-printed in 
pigment; designer: Alexander Girard; pro- 
ducer: Herman Miller (40) 

313. "The Hunt," amorphous presentation of 
primitive hunting scene, black on natural 
ground; linen, silk screen-printed; design- 
er: Peter Heineraann; producer: Patter- 
son Fabrics, Inc. (45) 

314. "Pastel Bouquet," interpretation of a de- 
sign of Pierre Ranson (1736-1786), greens, 
greys, beige, orange on white; cotton, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Pieter Mijer; 
producer: Patterson Fabrics, Inc. (45) 

315. "Loire," columnar design from a design of 
Alexis Loir (1640-1713), black, polychrome 
pastels on white; linen, silk screen-printed; 
producer: Patterson Fabrics, Inc. (45) 



16 



316. "Spanish Acanthus," scroll in formal re- 
peat, black on natural ground; linen, silk 
screen-printed; styled by John Wisner 
from a 16th-century document; producer: 
Patterson Fabrics, Inc. (45) 

317. "Grape Trellis," cross-banded grape motif, 
after a design by Giocondo Albertolli 
(1742-1825), black on natural ground; 
linen, silk screen-printed; producer: Pat- 
terson Fabrics, Inc. (45) 

318. "Military Medals," medals in formal re- 
peat on striped ground, red, white, blue, 
black, yellow; cotton, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Joe Martin; producer: Patterson 
Fabrics, Inc. (45) 

319. "Trompe I'Oeil," polychrome on tan 
wood-grain ground; cotton, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Don Wight; producer: 
Patterson Fabrics, Inc. (45) 

320. "Some Flowers," paper-wrapped bouquets 
of stock on dotted ground, violet, brown, 
green on grey; cotton, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Portia Lebrun; producer: Pat- 
terson Fabrics, Inc. (45) 

321. "Rocaille," design from document of 
Juste-Aur^Ie Meissonier (1675-1750), me- 
tallic gold on white; cotton, silk screen- 
printed in pigment; styled by Claude 
Herndon; producer: Patterson Fabrics, 
Inc. (45) 

322. "On the Square," checkerboard, yellow on 
natural ground; linen gauze, silk screen- 
printed; producer: Patterson Fabrics, Inc. 
(45) 

323. "Antique Damask," metallic silver on yel- 
low; cotton, silk screen-printed in pig- 
ment; producer: Patterson Fabrics, Inc. 
(45) 

324. "Antique Damask," silver on yellow; wall- 
paper, silk screen-printed; producer: Pi- 
azza_Prints (47) 

325. "Music Collage," music sheets, black on 
green and beige wash; cotton, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Ezio Martinelli; pro- 
ducer: Morton Sundour Co., Inc. (53) 

*326. "Tranquil Harbour," sketch of fishing 
boats, black on green; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Ezio Martinelli; pro- 
ducer: Morton Sundour Co., Inc. (53) 

327. "Bandage Baby," criss-cross lines on 
stripes, green on red and brown; linen, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc,; 1946 ( ) 

328. "Conch Shell," piece, shell motif, red on 
red; linen, silk screen-printed; designer 
and producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, 
Inc.; 1948 (56) 

329. "Eggplant," piece, vegetables on stripe, 
black on violet; linen, silk screen-printed; 
designer and producer: D. D. and Leslie 
Tillett, Inc; 1952 (56) 

330. "Stripe," violet, brown, pink; Fiberglas, 
silk screen-printed; designer and produc- 
er: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc.; 1954 (56) 

331. "Honesty," dried pods, white, beige on 
white; Fiberglas, silk screen-printed in 



pigments; designer and producer: D. D. 
and Leslie Tillett, Inc.; 1954 (56) 

332. "Shasta Daisy," flower head, yellow, green, 
white on white; Fiberglas, silk screen- 
printed in pigments; designer and produc- 
er: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc.; 1954 (56) 

333. "Big Shell," shell motif, natural, black 
ground; linen, silk screen-printed in re- 
sist; designer and producer: D. D. and 
Leslie Tillett, Inc.; 1956 (56) 

334. Border Motif, Greek key, yellow flocking 
on white; silk and cotton, silk flocking, 
silk screen-printed; producer: The Win- 
dow Shop (62) 

335. Border Motif, feather edge, taken from an 
18th-century embroidery, blue flocking on 
white; silk and cotton, silk flocking, silk 
screen-printed; producer: The Window 
Shop (62) 

336. Piece, leaves, rust, greens, yellow on natu- 
ral ground; linen, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Ann Ophelia Todd; producer: 
Morley-Fletcher; England (18) 

337. Piece, leaves and berries, yellow, browns 
on natural ground; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Ann Ophelia Todd; 
producer: Morley-Fletcher; England (18) 

338. Piece, silhouetted grasses and seed pods, 
greys, browns, greens on natural ground; 
linen, silk screen-printed; designer: Ann 
Ophelia Todd; producer: Morley-Fletcher; 
England (18) 

339. "Spinners," line drawing, black, white on 
red; cotton, silk screen-printed; designer: 
Mary Warren; producer: Cheney, Greeff 
& Co., Inc.; England (11) 

340. "Printania," floral, polychrome on grey- 
green; cotton, silk screen-printed; pro- 
ducer: Brunschwig & Fils; France (9) 

341. "Bengali," birds and foliage, black on 
white; cotton, silk screen-printed; pro- 
ducer: Brunschwig & Fils; France (9) 

342. "Gladioli," flowers, yellow, red, green on 
white; cotton, silk screen-printed; pro- 
ducer: Brunschwig & Fils; France (9) 

343. "Tulips," stylized flowers, polychrome on 
natural ground; linen, silk screen-printed; 
Germany (17) 

344. "DuBarry Mosaic," polychrome in metal- 
lic pigments; cotton and Novafil, silk 
screen-printed; Italy (17) 

*345. "Coptic Horse," motif in the style of an- 
cient tapestry, black on white; cotton, 
wood-block-printed in pigment; designer: 
Dorothy MacNab; Jamaica, Montego Bay 
(55) 

346. "Cocoa Leaves," design from the imprint 
of the leaf, metallic gold, black on green; 
cotton, wood-block-printed in pigment; 
designer: Dorothy MacNab; Jamaica, 
Montego Bay (55) 

347. "Hart and Bird," metallic gold, brown on 
white; cotton, wood-block-printed in pig- 
ment; designer: Dorothy MacNab; Ja- 
maica, Montego Bay (55) 

17 



348. "Pythagoras," triangles compounded, 
shades of red, black on white; linen, silk 
screen-printed; designer: Sven Markelius; 
producer: Knoll Associates, Inc.; Sweden 
(28) 

349. "Tri-Drama," triangles of color, orange, 
reds, green; linen, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer: Viola Grasten; producer: Nord- 
iska-Kompaniet; Sweden, Stockholm (63) 

350. "Timglas," hourglass silhouetted stripe, 
blue on white; linen, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Arthur Siegel; producer: Nord- 
iska Kompaniet; Sweden, Stockholm (63) 

351. "Festivo," polychrome squares on black; 
cotton velvet, silk screen-printed; design- 
er: Viola Grasten; producer: Nordiska 
Kompaniet; Sweden, Stockholm (63) 

352. "Bob and Jack," interrupted stripe of 
squares, metallic silver, black, blue on 
blue; linen, silk screen-printed in pig- 
ments; designer: Astrid Sampe; producer: 
Nordiska Kompaniet; Sweden, Stockholm 
(63) 

353. "Coraedia," fanciful masquerade figures, 
reds and black; linen, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Stig Lindberg; producer: Nord- 
iska Kompaniet; Sweden, Stockholm (63) 

354. "Atomics," reds, orange on black; linen, 
silk screen-printed; designer: Theodor 
Svedberg; producer: Nordiska Kompaniet; 
Sweden, Stockholm (63) 

355. "Vagorna," vertical stylized fishing motifs, 
blues, greys on white; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Stig Lindberg; produc- 
er: Nordiska Kompaniet; Sweden, Stock- 
holm (63) 

*356. "Revy," jagged blocks of mosaic, reds, 
black on white; cotton, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Viola Grasten; producer: Nord- 
iska Kompaniet; Sweden, Stockholm (63) 

357. "Tulipuu," abstract floral motif, blue, 
green on white; linen, silk screen-printed; 
designer: Viola Grasten; producer: Nord- 
iska Kompaniet; Sweden, Stockholm (63) 

358. "Raff," blocks of polychrome, black lines 
on white; linen and cotton, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Viola Grasten; produc- 
er: Nordiska Kompaniet; Sweden, Stock- 
holm (63) 

359. "Symphony," oval forms, greens, broWn, 
red on natural ground; linen, silk screen- 
printed; designer: Gusta Lindfors; pro- 
ducers: Nordiska Kompaniet; Sweden, 
Stockholm (63) 

TEXTILES FOR APPAREL 

360. "Dime Novels," woman's scarf, pictorial, 
yellow, terra-cotta red border; silk, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
Brooke Cadwallader, Inc. (10) 

361. "Still Life," fruit motif, violet, blue; silk, 
silk screen-printed; designer and produc- 
er: Brooke Cadwallader, Inc. (10) 

362. "Harlequin," diamonds, red, grey, black, 
metallic gold; cotton velveteen, silk screen- 

18 



printed; designer and producer: Brooke 
Cadwallader, Inc. (10) 

363. Unmounted Skirt, circles and lines, black, 
brown on white; Lilion (unwoven cotton 
and nylon), silk screen-printed; producer: 
Cohn-Hall-Marx (13) 

364. Length, flowers on striated ground, brown 
and pink on orange; cotton and Celanese 
acetate, roller-printed; producer: Cohn- 
Hall-Marx (13) 

363. Length, well-covered pattern of flowers, 
polychrome pastels on white; cotton and 
Celanese acetate, roller-printed; producer: 
Cohn-Hall-Marx (13) 

366. Length, chalk stripe imitating suiting 
flannel, black and white; silk, engraved 
steel roller-printed; designer: Jos6 Martin; 
producer: Couture Fabrics, Ltd. (15) 

367. Length, polychrome stripe; silk, printed 
with the George Tillett striper; designer: 
Jos^ Martin; producer: Couture Fabrics, 
Ltd. (15) 

368. Length, flowers, black, white and grey; 
Celanese acetate, warp printed by roller; 
woven by Louis Messer & Co.; producer: 
Empire Dyeing and Finishing Co. (20) 

369. Length, bold block in dry-brush tech- 
nique, orange on white; silk sheer, roller- 
printed; designer: Jos6 Martin; producer: 
The Fabricmart Corp. (21) 

370. Length, geometric forms, blue on blue; 
cotton, roller mordant-printed; producer: 
Forge Mills, Inc. (22) 

371. Length, loosely brushed floral motif, 
black, green on light blue; nylon and ace- 
tate jersey, roller-printed; producer: Forge 
Mills, Inc. (22) 

372. Length, Indian motif on twill ground, 
violet, black on green; cotton, roller- 
printed; producer: Forge Mills, Inc. (22) 

373. Length, Indian motif, black on brown; 
nylon and acetate jersey, roller-printed; 
producer: Forge Mills, Inc. (22) 

374. Length, flowers and leaves, black, brown, 
violet on beige; nylon and acetate jersey, 
roller-printed; producer: Forge Mills, Inc. 
(22) 

375. Length, rosebud, pink flocking, green on 
beige; nylon net, roller-printed; producer: 
Forge Mills, Inc. (22) 

376. Length, maize, red and black; cotton, rol- 
ler-printed; producer: Forge Mills, Inc. 
(22) 

377. Length, penwork, violet on blue; cotton, 
roller-printed; producer: Forge Mills, Inc. 
(22) 

378. Length, Middle Eastern motifs, orange, 
green and black on grey; cotton, roller- 
printed; producer: Forge Mills, Inc. (22) 

379. Length, twigs and leaves on square re- 
peat, reds; cotton, roller-printed; produc- 
er: Forge Mills, Inc. (22) 

380. Length, vermiform pattern, white and 
black on pink; cotton, roller-printed and 
flocked; producer: Forge Mills, Inc. (22) 



381. Length, daisy motif, blue, black, red, grey 
and white on black and white woven pat- 
terned ground; cotton, direct and dis- 
charge printed from roller; producer: 
Forge Mills, Inc. (22) 

382. Length, ribbon motif, pink, brown on 
white; acetate, roller-printed; producer: 
Goodman and Theise, Inc. (24) 

383. Length, coin dot, yellow on magenta; silk, 
roller-printed; producer: Goodman and 
Theise, Inc. (24) 

384. Length, amoeboid shapes, blue, black on 
white; acetate, roller-printed; producer: 
Goodman and Theise, Inc. (24) 

385. Length, alternate blocks of circles and 
squares in formal repeat, black on yellow; 
silk, roller-printed; producer: Goodman 
and Theise, Inc. (24) 

386. Length, flowers and leaves, blue, violet on 
black; cotton, roller-printed; producer: 
Goodman and Theise, Inc. (24) 

387. Length, criss-cross lines, blues on black; 
cotton, roller-printed; producer: Good- 
man and Theise, Inc. (24) 

388. Length, batik type, blue, brown on white; 
cotton, roller-printed; producer: Good- 
man and Theise, Inc. (24) 

389. Length, mottled, reds on white; cotton, 
roller-printed; producer: Goodman and 
Theise, Inc. (24) 

390. Length, diamond, green and yellow on 
white; silk, roller-printed; producer: 
Goodman and Theise, Inc. (24) 

391. Length, diamond, green and yellow on 
white; silk sheer, roller-printed; producer: 
Goodman and Theise, Inc. (24) 

392. Length, dot, red, pink on white; silk, 
roller-printed; producer: Goodman and 
Theise, Inc. (24) 

393. Length, dot, red, pink on white; silk 
sheer, roller-printed; producer: Goodman 
and Theise, Inc. (24) 

394. Length, lace black on white; silk, roller- 
printed; producer: Goodman and Theise, 
Inc. (24) 

395. Length, lace, black on white; silk sheer, 
roller-printed; producer: Goodman and 
Theise, Inc. (24) 

396. Length, flowers, blue, violet, pink, red; 
silk, roller-printed; producer: Goodman 
and Theise, Inc. (24) 

397. Length, flowers, blue, violet, pink, red; 
silk sheer, roller-printed; producer: Good- 
man and Theise, Inc. (24) 

398. Length, blurred dot, grey on black; Cela- 
nese acetate, roller-printed; producer: 
Loomskill, Inc. (34) 

399. Length, diamond repeat, orange, rust and 
black; Celanese acetate, roller-printed; 
producer: Loomskill, Inc. (34) 

400. Length, striated texture, brown on white; 
Celanese acetate, roller-printed; producer: 
Loomskill, Inc. (34) 

401. Length, irregular stripe with abstract mo- 
tit, white, pink, beige; silk sheer, roller- 
printed; producer: Onondaga Silk Co. (42) 



402. Length, flower repeat, shades violet, green; 
silk, roller-printed; producer: Onondaga 
Silk Co. (42) 

403. Length, flowers, green, white, red; silk 
sheer, roller-printed; producer: Onondaga 
Silk Co. (42) 

404. Length, flower and stripe repeat, beige, 
green; silk sheer, roller-printed; producer: 
Onondaga Silk Co. (42) 

405. Length, Indian motif, greys; silk sheer, 
roller-printed; producer: Onondaga Silk 
Co. (42) 

406. Length, stars within dots within squares, 
violet on light blue; Celanese acetate and 
cotton, roller-printed; producer: Pacific 
Mills (43) 

407. Length, ombr^ dots forming Indian mo- 
tifs, black on striped ground of blue, 
green, brown; cotton, silk screen-printed; 
designer and producer: Harvey Seltzer & 
Co. (51) 

408. Length, ombre dots forming Indian mo- 
tifs, black on mottled ground of red and 
green; cotton, silk screen-printed; designer 
and producer: Harvey Seltzer & Co. (51) 

409. Length, Indian motifs on polychrome 
stripes; cotton, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer and producer: Harvey Seltzer & Co. 
(51) 

410. Length, interlaced mottled free forms, 
pink, orange, brown; cotton, silk screen- 
printed; designer and producer: Harvey 
Seltzer & Co. (51) 

411. Length, scroll on mottled ground, black, 
reds, blues, greens; cotton, silk screen- 
printed; dseigner and producer: Harvey 
Seltzer & Co. (51) 

412. Length, tile motifs on striped ground, 
blue, yellow, red, brown; cotton, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
Harvey Seltzer & Co. (51) 

413. Length, Indian motif on stripe, reds, 
browns, yellows, blues; cotton, silk screen- 
printed; designer and producer: Harvey 
Seltzer & Co. (51) 

414. Length, textured stripes, reds, browns, 
blues; cotton and rayon, silk screen- 
printed; designer and producer: Harvey 
Seltzer & Co. (51) 

415. Length, monochrome plaid, greys; cotton, 
silk screen-printed; designer and produc- 
er: Harvey Seltzer & Co. (51) 

416. Length, marbled, greys, pink; cotton, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
Harvey Seltzer & Co. (51) 

417. Length, polychrome plaid; cotton, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
Harvey Seltzer & Co. (51) 

418. Length, mottled polychrome; cotton, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
Harvey Seltzer & Co. (51) 

419. Length, shells, orange on orange; cotton, 
silk screen-printed; designer and produc- 
er: Harvey Seltzer & Co. (51) 

19 



420. "Fierce Red," plaid, shades of red; cotton, 
silk screen-printed; designer and produc- 
er: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc., 1948 (56) 

421. "Starfish," on stripes, pinks, oranges; silk, 
silk screen-printed; designer and produc- 
er: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc., 1951 (56) 

422. "Walnuts," over-night bag, brown on 
black, man's shirt, cravat, bow-tie and 
peignoir; cotton, silk screen-printed; de- 
signer and producer: D. D. and Leslie Til- 
lett, Inc., 1952 (56) 

423. "Red Stripe," piece, reds, black, brown; 
hand-woven cotton, silk screen-printed; 
designer and producer: D. D. and Leslie 
Tillett, Inc., 1953 (56) 

424. "Song of Lite," pictorial bands after an 
Italian mural, greys, browns, black and 
white; wool, silk screen-printed; designer 
and producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, 
Inc., 1954 (56) 

*425. "Lily," conventionalized columns of scrolls 
and fleur-de-lis on polychrome stripes; 
wool, silk screen-printed; designer and 
producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc., 
1954 (56) 

426. "Town Lights," spattered stripe, grey, 
brown, black, white; cotton, silk screen- 
printed in dye and pigment; designer and 
producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc., 
1954 (56) 

427. "Renaissance Plaid," piece, irregular 
flaked plaid, greys, browns, violet, blue, 
black; wool, silk screen-printed; designer 
and producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, 
Inc., 1954 (56) 

428. "Stuffed Fish," skeletal fish, red on striped 
green ground; cotton, silk screen-printed; 
designer and producer: D. D. and Leslie 
Tillett, Inc., 1954 (56) 

429. "Victorian Tassels," piece, diaper repeat 
of tassels on striped groimd, blue, green; 
wool, silk screen-printed; designer and 
producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillet, Inc., 
1954 (56) 

430. "Strawberries," berry motif, red on red; 
cotton, silk screen-printed in resist; de- 
signer and producer: D. D. and Leslie Til- 
lett, Inc., 1954 (56) 

431. "Strawberries," beach hat and bag, red on 
red; cotton, silk screen-printed; designer 
and producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, 
Inc., 1954 (56) 

432. "Melody," piece, textural stripe, greens, 
blues; cotton, silk screen-printed; designer 
and producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, 
Inc., 1955 (56) 

433. "Bee Hive," tablecloth and napkin, black, 
grey on naturol ground; linen, silk screen- 
printed in resist; designer and producer: 
D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc.. 1955 (56) 

434. Pool Towel, striped, reds, violets; cotton 
terrycloth, silk screen-printed; designer 
and producer: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, 
Inc., 1955 (56) 

435. "Mad Plaid," polychrome and black; wool, 
silk screen-printed; designer and produc- 

20 



er: D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc., 1956 (56) 

436. "Obscure Fish," fish motif, on undulating 
stripes, blues, violets, white; cotton, silk 
screen-printed; designer and producer: 
D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc., 1956 (56) 

437. Length, daisy, black and grey on white; 
Celanese Arnel jersey, roller-printed; pro- 
ducer: WuUschleger & Co., Inc. (64) 

438. Length, bands of mossy foliage, black on 
white; Celanese Arnel jersey, roller- 
printed; producer: WuUschleger & Co., 
Inc. (64) 

*439. Length, map of the Belgian Congo sur- 
rounded by radiating fields of small repeat 
patterns, each enclosing a different natu- 
ral product of the Congo, yellow, green, 
orange, indigo; cotton, resist-printed from 
copper roller, dyed, block-printed; pro- 
duced in Holland for the Congo market 
(23) 

440. Piece, medallion taken from a batik in the 
Cooper Union Museum collection, brown, 
yellow, indigo on white ground; cotton, 
roller-printed; designed in the United 
States; produced in Japan for the Congo 
market (23) 

441. Length, circles and trailing lines, red, yel- 
low on indigo ground; cotton, stitch re- 
sist and tie-dyed; designed in the United 
States; produced in Japan for the Congo 
market (23) 

442. Thirteen Sample Pieces, various motifs; 
cotton, roller-printed, some in natural 
dyes and indigo; designed in the United 
States; produced in Japan, Osaka, for the 
Congo market (23) 

443. Five Pieces, various designs; cotton, stitch- 
resist and tie-dyed in natural dyes and in- 
digo; designed in the United States; pro- 
duced in Japan for the Congo market (23) 

444. Piece, stripes, diagonal lines and crosses, 
indigo and white; cotton, stitch resist; 
Nigeria, Abeokuta, Yoruba Tribe (5) 

445. Piece, star and line pattern, indigo and 
white; cotton, stitch resist and tie-dyed; 
Nigeria, Abeokuta, Yoruba Tribe (5) 

446. Length, polychrome fruit motifs outlined 
with broad brush strokes of black; cotton, 
silk screen-printed; producer: Cohn-Hall- 
Marx; Japan (13) 

447. Length, cocks and trees, blues, red, black 
on white; silk, silk screen-printed; pro- 
ducer: Cohn-Hall-Marx; Japan (13) 

448. Length, flowers and leaves, blue, violet, 
black, metallic gold on white; silk, silk 
screen-printed; producer: Cohn-Hall- 
Marx; Japan (13) 

449. "Family Group," square scarf, figures in 
red, yellow, blue and white on black; 
rayon, silk screen direct- and discharge- 
printed; designer: Henry Moore (1898- 

); England, 1945-1946 (48) 

450. Length, flower sprays and bow-knots, 
pink, red and metallic gold on violet; silk 
sheer, silk screen-printed; producer: Myri- 
cae; Italy, Rome (14) 



SELECTED REFERENCES 

FROM THE COOPER UNION MUSEUM LIBRARY 



GENERAL WORKS 

Bezon, Jean. Dictionnaire g^n^ral des tissus an- 
ciens et modernes. Lyon, L^pagnez, 1857-67. 
9 vols. 

Biihler-Oppenheim, Kristin, and Biihler-Oppen- 
heim, Alfred. Die Textiliensammlung Fritz 
Ikl^-Huber im Museum fiir Volkerkunde und 
Schweizerischen Museum fiir Volkskunde, Ba- 
sel (Griuidlagen zur Systeraatik der gesamcen 
textilen Techniken). Ziirich, Fretz, 1948. 
{Denkschriften der Schweizerischen Natur- 
forschenden Gesellschaft, vol. 78, part 2) 

Capey, Reco. The printing of textiles. New 
York, Wiley, 1930. 

Ciba Company, Inc. Textile printing with dyes 
of the Society of Chemical Industry in Basle 
. . . and with those of the Dow Chemical Com- 
pany, Midland, Mich. New York, Howes, 1928. 
3 vols. 

Clouzot, Henri. Painted and printed fabrics, the 
history of the manufactory at Jouy and other 
ateliers in France, 1760-1815. Notes on the 
history of cotton printing, especially in Eng- 
land and America, by Frances Morris. New 
York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1927. 

Cooper, Thomas. A practical treatise on dyeing 
and callicoe printing. Philadelphia, Dobson, 
1815. 

Crookes, Sir William. Dyeing and tissue-print- 
ing. London, Bell, 1882. 

Day, Lewis F. Pattern design. London, Bats- 
ford, 1923. 

Dollfus-Ausset, Daniel. Mat^riaux pour la color- 
ation des 6toffes. Paris, Savy, 1865. 2 vols. 

Forrer, Robert. Die Kunst des Zeugdrucks vom 
Mittelalter bis zur Empirezeit. Strassburg, 
Schlesier & Schweikhardt, 1898. 

Forrer, Robert. Die Zeugdrucke der byzantin- 
ischen, romanischen, gothischen und spateren 
Kunstepochen. Strassburg, 1894. 

Glazier, Richard. Historic textile fabrics. New 
York, Scribner's, 1923. 

Henschen Ingvar, Ingegerd. Tygtryck i Sverige, 
vol. 1: Fore 1700. Stockholm, Nordiska Mu- 
seet, 1942. 

Kasper, Karl. Bunter Traum auf gewebtem 
Grund, aus der Wunderwelt des StofEdrucks. 
Berlin, Eisner, 1938. 

Linton, George E. The modern textile diction- 
ary. New York, Duell, Sloan & Pearce, 1954. 

Parnell, Edward A. A practical treatise on dye- 
ing and calico-printing including the latest 
inventions and improvements. New York, 
Wiley, 1860. 

Percival, Maclver. The chintz book. London, 
Heinemann, 1923. 



Persoz, Jean Francois. Traite th^orique et pra- 
tique de I'impression des tissus. Paris, Masson, 
1846. 4 vols. 

Pettit, Florence H. Block printing on fabrics. 
New York, Hastings House, 1952. 

A practical treatise on dyeing and calico print- 
ing, including the latest inventions and im- 
provements. New York, Harper, 1846. 

Sansone, Antonio. The printing of cotton fab- 
rics, comprising calico bleaching, printing and 
dyeing. 2nd ed., rev. Manchester, Heywood, 
1901. 

Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington. 

Brief guide to the oriental painted, dyed and 

printed textiles. London, 1924. 
Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington. 

Brief guide to the western painted, dyed and 

printed textiles. London, 1924. 

Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington. 

European printed textiles. London, H. M. 

Stationery Office, 1949. 
Walton, Perry. The story of textiles. New York, 

Tudor Pub. Co., 1937. 
Wright, Robert H. Modern textile design and 

production. London, National Trade Press, 

1949. 

SPECIAL COUNTRIES AND SUBJECTS 

Allemagne, Henry Ren6 d'. La toile imprim^e 
et les indiennes de traite. Paris, Griind, 1942. 
2 vols. 

Arseven, CelSl Esad. Les Arts d^coratifs turcs. 
Istambul, Milli Egitim Basimevi [194-?] Le 
Yazma, pp. 264-9. 

Baines, Sir Edward. History of the cotton manu- 
facture in Great Britain. London, Fisher & 
Jackson, 1835. 

Baker, George P. Calico painting and printing 
in the East Indies in the XVIIth and XVllIth 
centuries. London, Arnold, 1921. 2 vols. 

Batiks. Ciba Review no. 58, July 1947. 

Bendure, Zelma, and PfeifFer, Gladys. America's 
fabrics; origin and history, manufacture, char- 
acteristics and uses. New York, Macmillan, 
1947. 

Berthoud, Dorette. Les indiennes neuchSteloises. 
Boudry, Switzerland, Baconniire, 1951. 

Breck, Joseph. Four seventeenth-century pin- 
tadoes. Metropolitan Museum Studies, vol. 1, 
pp. 3-15, October 1928. 

Brett, K. B. The Harry Wearne collection of 
painted and printed textiles, parts 1, 2 & 3. 
Bulletin of the Royal Ontario Museum of 
Archaeology, nos. 17, 18 & 22; 1951, 1952 & 
1954. 



21 



A brief state of the question between the printed 
and painted calhcoes and the woollen and 
silk manufacture . . . 2nd ed. London, Bore- 
ham, 1719. 

Clouzot, Henri. Histoire de la manufacture de 
Jouy et de la toile imprim^e en France. Paris, 
Van Oest, 1928. 2 vols. 

Clouzot, Henri. La manufacture de Jouy et la 
toile imprim^e au XVIII= siMe. Paris, Van 
Oest, 1926. 

Clouzot, Henri. La toile peinte en France; la 
manufacture de Jouy. Versailles, Bourdier, 
1912-14. 

Culin, Stewart. The story of the painted cur- 
tains. Good Furniture, vol. 11, pp. 133-147, 
September 1918. 

Depitre, Edgard. La toile peinte en France au 
XVIIo et au XVIIIe siteles; Industrie, com- 
merce, prohibitions. Paris, Riviere, 1912. 

Driessen, Louis A. Calico printing and cotton 
industry in Holland. Ciba Review, no. 48, 
pp. 1748-51, May 1944. 

Erivan. Gosudarstvennaia kartinnaia gallereia 
Armenii. Armianskaia naboika [Armenian 
printed textiles]. Moskva, 1953. 

Hadaway, William S. Cotton painting and 
printing in the Madras Presidency. Madras, 
Government Press, 1917. 

Hassler, Friedrich. Die Augsburger Textil-, 
Metall- und Papierindustrie. (In: Augusta 
955-1955, Forschungen und Studien zur Kul- 
tur- und Wirtschaftsgeschichte Augsburgs. 
Munich, H. Rinn, 1955, pp. 403-426) 

Hunton, W. Gordon. English decorative textiles. 
London, Tiranti, 1930. 

Ikats. Ciba Review no. 44, August 1942. 

Ikl^, Charles F. Ikat technique and Dutch East 
Indian ikats. New York, 1934. (Reprint from 
Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, vol. 
15, nos. 1 and 2, 1931) 

Indigo. Ciba Review no. 85, April 1951. 

[Japanese chintz designs, Sarasa]. 1883. 

Jaques, Renate. Deutsche Textilkunst in ihrer 
Entwicklung bis zur Gegenwart. Berlin, Rem- 
brandt-Verlag, 1942. 

Jaques, Renate. Mittelalterlicher Textildruck 
am Rhein. Kevelaer, Butzon & Bercker, 1950. 
(Textilkunst am Rhein, vol. I) 

Jayakar, Pupul. Indian printed textiles. Bom- 
bay, All India Handicrafts Board, 1954. 

Journal of Design and Manufactures, vols. 1-6. 
London, Chapman & Hall, March 1849-Febru- 
ary 1852. 6 vols. 

Journal of Indian Textile History no. I. Ahmed- 
abad, India, Calico Museum of Textiles, 1955. 

Lamm, Carl J. Cotton in mediaeval textiles of 
the Near East. Paris, Geuthner, 1937. 

Lewis, Albert B. Block prints from India for 
textiles. Chicago, Field Museum of Natural 
History, 1924. 

22 



Lewis, Frank. English chintz, from earliest times 
until the present day. Benfleet, England, 1935. 

Little, Frances. Early American textiles. New 
York, Century Co., 1931. 

Longfield, Ada K. History of the Irish linen and 
cotton printing industry in the 18th century. 
Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries 
of Ireland, vol. 76, pp. 26-56, 1937. 

Longfield, Ada K. Notes on the linen and cot- 
ton printing industries in northern Ireland 
in the eighteenth century. (Reprinted from 
Proceedings of the Belfast Natural History 
and Philosophical Society, 2nd ser., no. 4, pp. 
53-68, sessions 1950/51 & 1954/55). 

Mailey, Jean. Indian textiles in the Museum's 
collection. Chronicle of the Museum for the 
Arts of Decoration of the Cooper Union, vol. 
2., no. 5, June 1953. 

Medieval cloth printing in Europe. Ciba Review 
no. 26, October 1937. 

Mijer, Pieter. Batiks, and how to make them. 
New York, Dodd, Mead, 1919. 

Moussinac, Leon, fitoffes imprimte et papiers 
peints. Paris, L^vy, 1924. 

Pfister, R. Les toiles imprimte de Fostat et 
I'Hindoustan. Paris, Editions d'Art et d'His- 
toire, 1938. 

Plangi — tie and dye work. Ciba Review no. 
104, June 1954. 

Real, Daniel. Les batiks de Java. Paris, Calavas, 
n.d. 

Real, Daniel. Tissus des Indes n^erlandaises. 
Paris, Calavas, 1927. 

Roy, Bernard. Une capitale de I'indiennage: 
Nantes. Nantes, Musee des Salorges, 1948. 

Schuster, Carl. Stitch-resist dyed fabrics of west- 
ern China. Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin 
Club, vol. 32, pp. 11-31, 1948. 

Schwartz, Paul R. Les debuts de I'indiennage 
mulhousien. Bulletin trimestriel de la Soci- 
ete Industrielle de Mulhouse, no. 3, 1950, pp. 
21-44; no. 1, 1951, pp. 33-54; no. 1, 1952, pp. 
5-18. 

Sobolev, Nicolai N. NaboTka v Rosii; istoria i 
sposob raboty [Textile printing in Russia; his- 
tory and technique]. Moskva, Sytin, 1912. 

Society Industrielle de Mulhouse. Histoire docu- 
mentaire de I'industrie de Mulhouse et de ses 
environs au XIX™e si^cle. Mulhouse, Bader, 
1902. 

Tanaka, Toshio, and Tanaka, Reiko. A study 
of Okinawan textile fabrics. Tokyo, Meiji- 
shobo, 1952. 2 vols. 

Tennent, Sir James E. A treatise on the copy- 
right of designs for printed fabrics . . . Lon- 
don, Smith, Elder, 1841. 

Textile printing in 18th century France. Ciba 
Review no. 31, March 1940. 

Textile printing in Switzerland. Ciba Review 
no. 105, August 1954. 



Turnbull, Geoffrey. A history of the calico print- 
ing inciustry of Great Britain. Altrincham, 
Eng., Sherratt, 1951. 

Union Centrale des Arts D^coratifs. Oeuvres de 
Huet et son &ole pour la manufacture de 
Jouy. Paris, Gu^rinet, n.d. (Nouvelles collec- 
tions de rUnion Centrale des Arts Decoratits) 

Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington. 
English chintz. London, H. M. Stationery Of- 
fice, 1955. (Small picture book, no. 22) 

Vieilles toiles de Jouy, XVIIIe siMe, premier 
empire . . . Paris, Gu^rinet, n.d. 

Vydra, Josef. Indigo blue print in Slovak folk 
art. Prague, Artia, 1954. 

SOME EXHIBITIONS OF PRINTED FABRICS 

1907-8. Paris. Musee Galliera. La tradition de 
la toile imprim^e en France. Paris, 1907. 

1927. New York. Metropolitan Museum of Art. 
Catalogue of a retrospective exhibition of 
painted and printed fabrics. New York, 1927. 

1928. Paris. Mus^e Galliera. Toile imprim^e 
et papier peint. Paris, 1928. 

1929. Berlin. Herrmann Gerson. Ausstellung 
von antiken, bedruckten Stoffen; Originale 
aus den Manufakturen von Jouy, Nantes, 
Melun und anderen. Berlin, 1929. 

1934. New York. Cooper Union Museum. Ex- 



hibition of printed fabrics, with original car- 
toons and designs [by Frances Morris]. Chron- 
icle of the Museum for the Arts of Decoration 
of the Cooper Union, vol. 1, no. 1, pp. 3-11, 
April 1935. 

1941. New-York Historical Society. Catalogue, 
American scenes and events on textiles; an ex- 
hibition of printed cottons, linens and silks 
from 1777 to 1941. New York, 1941. 

1950. Basel. Gewerbemuseum, and Zurich. 
Kunstgewerbemuseum. Ausstellung: Der Tex- 
tildruck. Basel, 1950. 

1952. Mulhouse. Musee de I'lmpression. Expo- 
sition de I'ete 1952 [par Jacques-Henry Gros]. 
(Extrait du Bulletin nos. 3 & 4 de la Soci^ti 
Industrielle de Mulhouse, 1952) 

1953. Enschede. Rijksmuseum "Twenthe." Ten- 
toonstelling: Bont en blauw, tien eeuwen 
bedrukte stof. Enschede, 1953. 

1954. Mulhouse. Mus^e de I'lmpression. Pre- 
sentation de la collection Louis Becker: Mou- 
choirs et tissus imprimes des XVIII^ et XIX« 
sifecles. Mulhouse, 1954. 

1955. Manchester. Cotton Board Colour De- 
sign and Style Centre. English chintz; two 
centuries of changing taste; an exhibition 
[compiled by the Victoria and Albert Mu- 
seum]. London, H. M. Stationery Office, 1955. 

Gerd Muehsam 



23 



CONTRIBUTORS 



To the Exhibition 



Albany Institute of History 

AND Art (1) 
American Craftsmen's Council (2) 
Anonymous (3) 
The Apponaug Company (4) 
William Bascom (5) 
J. Bass &: Company (6) 
Miss G. F. Bieber (7) 
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (8) 
Brunschwig & FiLs (9) 
Brooke Cadwallader, Inc. (10) 
Cheney, Greeff and Co., Inc. (11) 
Arundell Clarke (12) 
Cohn-M all-Marx Co. (13) 
The Cooper Union Museum (14) 
Couture Fabrics, Ltd. (15) 
Creative Looms, Inc. (16) 
DoMus Fabrics, Inc. (17) 
Mrs. Raymond B. Dowden (18) 
Kunstsammlungen der Stadt 

DiJSSELDORF (19) 

Empire Dyeing and Finishing 

Co. (20) 
The Fabricmart Corp. (21) 
Forge Mills (22) 
J. Gerber and Co., Inc. (23) 
Goodman and Theise, Inc. (24) 
Hedaya Brothers (25) 
Josephine Howell, Inc. (26) 
Kagan-Dreyfuss, Inc. (27) 
Knoll Associates, Inc. (28) 
Konwiser, Inc. (29) 
Boris Kroll Fabrics, Inc. (30) 
Jack Lenor Larsen, Inc. (31) 
Laverne Incorporated (32) 
Adolph Loewi (33) 
Loomskill, Inc. (34) 

24 



L. Anton Maix, Inc. (35) 

Jose Martin (36) 

Gene McDonald, Inc. (37) 

Elinor Merrell (38) 

The Metropolitan Museum 

of Art (39) 
Herman Miller (40) 
The New- York Historical 

Society (41) 
Onondaga Silk Company, Inc. (42) 
Pacific Mills (43) 
Mrs. James Iman Pamoedjo (44) 
Patterson Fabrics (45) 
Philadelphia Museum of Art (46) 
Piazza Prints (47) 
Museum of Art, Rhode Island 

School of Design (48) 
Manabu Saito (49) 
Carl Schuster (50) 
Harvey Seltzer &: Co. (51) 
Landesgewerbemuseum, 

Stuttgart (52) 
Morton Sundour Co., Inc. (53) 
Textile Museum, 

Washington, D. C. (54) 
Thaibok Fabrics, Ltd. (55) 
D. D. and Leslie Tillett, Inc. (56) 
Miss Gertrude Townsend (57) 
The United Piece Dye Works (58) 
Mrs. Langdon Warner (59) 
Colonial Williamsburg (60) 
Mrs. Elizabeth Bayley Willis (61) 
The Window Shop (62) 
Wolfin Associates, Inc. (63) 
Wullschleger Co., Inc. (64) 
Matthew Wysocki (65) 
Yale University Art Gallery (66) 



/>•' 



iwiwiwiwi 



1 LIBRARIES SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIIflillSNI NVINOSHilWS S3l8Vyan LI BR 
z - ^ ^. ^ z . (/) z w 2 , 



>J N0liniliSNI_NVIN0SHilWS*^S3iyVHan^LIBRARIEs'^SMITHS0NIAN^INSTITUTI0N NOlif 





LIBRARIES SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI NVINOSHilWS SBiaVysn LIBR 




M NoiiniiiSNi NVINOSHilWS S3 1 avd an libraries smithsonian~institution Noiir 

w Z ^ ^ W Z ,... W 2 >., w 



?^ 



T_ libraries smithsonian_ institution NoiiniiiSNi NVINOSHilWS S3iavyan libr 






^_NoiiniiiSNi^NviNOSHiiws S3iyvaan libraries Smithsonian institution Noiin 

- w ^ OT — £ a> 5 

1 LIBRARIES ^SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIinillSNI NVINOSHilWS S3iyvyan LIBRi 
z - w ^ ^ z . w z w . z ■, 

Q >^^ 5 /gr^i g %% 5 ^^. o 

■ N^* > ■ 2 X:^os2>i/ > 

J NOIiniliSNI_NVIN0SHilWS"S3 I yVy a M^LI BRAR I Es'^SMITHSONIAN^INSTITUTION "'NOlin 







T LIBRARIES SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI NVINOSHilWS S3iyvyan LIBR/ 




^,„ NOIiniliSNI NVINOSHilWS S3iyvyan libraries Smithsonian institution Noiin 

M Z ^ ^ W Z .,. W 2 




miiSNi^NviNOSHiiws^sa I a'vy a nj^Li B RAR i es"smithsonian_institution ^NoiiniiiSNi_ 

/ •' ^- H 

O '^t^sS^ — ' o 

— — Z — _l 2 — 

RARIES SMITHSONIAN^ INSTITUTION NOIiniJiSNI NVINOSHilWS S3 I « VM 8 11^ LI B RAR I ES^ 

LniliSNrNViN0SHilWs'"s3 I M VM 8 n~LI B RAR I Es'^SMITHSONIAN~INSTlTUTION,„ NOIiniliSNI^ 






RARIES SMITHSONIAN_ INSTITUTION NOIiniliSNI_NVINOSHilWS S3 I aVd 8 n_LI B RAR I ES 






LfliliSNI NVINOSHimS SBiyvaaiT libraries SMITHSONIAN^lNSTITUTION^NOIiniliSNI, 



RAR I Es]^SMITHS0NIAN~INSTITUT!0N%0liniIlSNl~NVIN0SHilWs"^S3 | aVH 8 H "■-' B RAR I ES^ 

LniliSNlf NVIN0SHilWs'^S3 I « Va 8 llf LI B RAR I ES*^SMITHSONIANJNSTITUTION ^NOIinillSNI. 

,^52^5^ o '^^" " XjvAs2i>' o XSSs^S?' "■ o 

RARIES SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIinillSNI NVINOSHilWS S3 I ava 8 IT LI B RAR I ES 








iniliSNrNVINOSHilWS S3 I ava 8 n~LI B RAR I Es'^SMITHSONi'an'iNSTITUTIOn' NOIinillSNI 

- '- -^ '" 2 .vy. '" 





(RARIES SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION NOIinillSNI NVINOSHilWS S3 I aVa 8 n_LI BRAR I ES 
CO = w = .„ . to ^ - ' 



y^^^'^OvjN,